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Lowering Springs Pros and Cons

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Jack it up, loosen the UCA/frame bolt and gravity will do the rest. Then go get the toe set.
 

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Jack it up, loosen the UCA/frame bolt and gravity will do the rest. Then go get the toe set.
Well heck, that sounds easy enough. We’re gonna work on it one night this week. I’m going by the other shop tomorrow and see what they say.


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I'm more than likely going to put a Traxda lift on my Explorer. I sure as hell hope I don't run into this same alignment BS afterwards.
 

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So I'm having the same issue now too, lowered it Saturday, took it to the alignment shop, showed them the print out you made Bruce, and they still couldn't get camber into spec. I don't have the exact measurements but rear camber was like -1.8 on both sides. I didn't want to argue with them but sounds like he didn't do something right. Taking it to another friend this weekend to see if we can get it closer. My question is will it cut tires at-1.8 if I drive it this week? I hate to have to borrow a vehicle and weather has been shitty here on the east coast this week.
 

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So I'm having the same issue now too, lowered it Saturday, took it to the alignment shop, showed them the print out you made Bruce, and they still couldn't get camber into spec. I don't have the exact measurements but rear camber was like -1.8 on both sides. I didn't want to argue with them but sounds like he didn't do something right. Taking it to another friend this weekend to see if we can get it closer. My question is will it cut tires at-1.8 if I drive it this week? I hate to have to borrow a vehicle and weather has been shitty here on the east coast this week.
Camber doesn’t really wear tires…toe does.
 

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Good deal, thank ya as always sir, side note the Lethal springs feel great, wish I'd have done this two years ago. Now she needs some Vossens lol.
 

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What a f-ing shit show! I just had new tires installed and a 4-wheel alignment. This is what I told them:
1. Jack up the rearend to take the weight off the wheels.
2. Lossen the camber adjustment nut 2 full turns.
3. Let the suspention settle and re-torque the nut.
4. Put the car down and check camber (which should be close to -.5°)
5. Adjust camber if not -.5°
6. Adjust toe to -.1° or just below.
The guy said when he checked the camber it was out of the spec I told him and he couldn't adjust it enough to get near -.5°. When he checked the camber after setting the car back down it was -1.4° and -1.7°. As soon as he loosened the nut to adjust it, the camber jumps back to -2.4° and -1.8°. So I told him to redo it and leave the camber where ever it falls and just set the toe. It ended up settling at -1.3° and -1.8°. The toe was set to 0.11° and 0.13°. Is this close enough? What else could he have done?
 



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