Steeda Subframe bushings

[Yenko]

They are the same. Not sure on price difference. Either you're supporting a major player in the Ford modifying community or a small business that has been supporting this Explorer since day one. Can't go wrong either way.

Thank you

 

[hfrog355]

Get the FenFab bushings. There is a $0.05 difference in price at Leathal Performance. But you could just go right to the FenFab website and support the small guy.

This x1000. No one is working for free and the more people that touch your transaction, the more some small cut of the money gets diverted off to a 3rd/4th/5th party before it reaches the maker. Support the people doing the work you appreciate as much as you can.

 

[jwuonog]

I just put these in, was very easy. So far I've only taken it around the block, but I can already feel a difference.

Have you ever rode a skateboard that had the trucks too loose, and then tightened them? That's what it feels like now. Much better.

 

[BeyondEOD]

I’m going to pull my Steeda front diff bushings and reinstall the factory ones. Also looking to go from an AWR brace to the ID Speed brace to help with the noise I have.

 

[Bluey!]

Just saw a failure on social media. Anyone else having this issue?

 

[UNBROKEN]

Yes they are failing and have been. It was always a bad idea…I’ve been saying it since they came out but everyone thinks the diff has to be damn near solid mounted and it’s just not true. You also can’t side load a poly bushing flange like that…and now everyone sees why.

 

[BeyondEOD]

Let’s make a delrin set….


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[bluesnake01]

Yes they are failing and have been. It was always a bad idea…I’ve been saying it since they came out but everyone thinks the diff has to be damn near solid mounted and it’s just not true. You also can’t side load a poly bushing flange like that…and now everyone sees why.

So are the steeda bushing kit not good for it?

Or are they still worth the buy with the fenfab toe and vertical links?

 

[Cruising68]

So are the steeda bushing kit not good for it?

Or are they still worth the buy with the fenfab toe and vertical links?

Steeda subframe bushing kits help with no downside imo. I agree with [mention]UNBROKEN [/mention] on mounting the diff too solidly.


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[bluesnake01]

Steeda subframe bushing kits help with no downside imo. I agree with [mention]UNBROKEN [/mention] on mounting the diff too solidly.


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Got it!

So front, keep it soft/stock, rear, full bushing and vertical/toe links.

 

[musclecarman39]

Musclecarman, I just had the rear end replaced on my 21 as well, 10,700 miles. had weird noise/vibration between 71-77 mph. Was told the rear end was full of metal shavings when they inspected it. I purchased the rear diff brace, swaybar bushing kit, JXB inserts, and pinion bushings but haven't installed yet, car is still in the shop.

Just saw your reply. I'm back to bone stock as I'm on my 4th rear diff if you count the original. The original RDU is the one I had the Steeda front pinion bushings, subframe spacers, and RDU brace on. That was the one in my original post that had been replaced. The dealership reinstalled the front pinion bushings and I still had the subframe spacers on the second rear diff but did not reinstall the RDU brace. 800 miles later that RDU started howling and needed to be replaced again. The dealership then installed the wrong rear diff with a different gear ratio and made it undriveable due to hard bucking. They replaced the transfer case saying that was it which it wasn't. They then discovered the rear subframe spacers and said that was the issue and if I wanted it fixed I would have to pay $1,200 for them to reinstall Factory OEM bushings because they thought i had installed aftermarket rear subframe bushings which were just the spacers. So I took them out and took it to a second dealership and then they finally found that I had the wrong rear diff installed. I had to take it back to the original dealership to get them to cover it under warranty. They finally opened a case with Ford engineering and found out it was the wrong rear diff and Ford engineering sent the correct rear diff to put in it. I'm currently at bone stock on everything right now. I'm going to drive it a while before reinstalling the rear subframe spacers. I will not go back to the front pinion bushings or the Steeda rear diff brace. When I do install a rear diff brace I am either going to reinstall my awr brace or an ID speed brace that lethal performance has.

 

[Caster]

Just saw your reply. I'm back to bone stock as I'm on my 4th rear diff if you count the original. The original RDU is the one I had the Steeda front pinion bushings, subframe spacers, and RDU brace on. That was the one in my original post that had been replaced. The dealership reinstalled the front pinion bushings and I still had the subframe spacers on the second rear diff but did not reinstall the RDU brace. 800 miles later that RDU started howling and needed to be replaced again. The dealership then installed the wrong rear diff with a different gear ratio and made it undriveable due to hard bucking. They replaced the transfer case saying that was it which it wasn't. They then discovered the rear subframe spacers and said that was the issue and if I wanted it fixed I would have to pay $1,200 for them to reinstall Factory OEM bushings because they thought i had installed aftermarket rear subframe bushings which were just the spacers. So I took them out and took it to a second dealership and then they finally found that I had the wrong rear diff installed. I had to take it back to the original dealership to get them to cover it under warranty. They finally opened a case with Ford engineering and found out it was the wrong rear diff and Ford engineering sent the correct rear diff to put in it. I'm currently at bone stock on everything right now. I'm going to drive it a while before reinstalling the rear subframe spacers. I will not go back to the front pinion bushings or the Steeda rear diff brace. When I do install a rear diff brace I am either going to reinstall my awr brace or an ID speed brace that lethal performance has.

I 2nd the vote of going with the AWR brace.

 

[UNBROKEN]

The ID Speed brace is the top of the heap if you want the best. It’s the only one on the market that was actually engineered to work with the normal movement of the car.
The AWR causes the diff to twist on hard launches. The dual braces add stiffness where it doesn’t need to be as evidenced in the bolts breaking on the Steeda version. You shouldn’t need APR hardware to keep a diff brace on your car.