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Oil catch cans

Messages
23
Reactions
10
Points
2
Location
Port St. Lucie, FL, USA
#1
Hello everyone!
Got my black/black 2021 ST today and going through the forums. Can someone please tell me about the oil catch cans and if they are really worth $400 price?
Never heard of such a thing.
Thank you in advance
 

DoingOK

Member
U.S. Navy Veteran
Messages
241
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308
Points
67
Location
Smithfield, Virginia, USA
#3
^^Agreed. JLT is only about 25 minutes away from me. They used my Raptor to prototype a solution. Good people.
 

Messages
52
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19
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7
Location
Virginia
#4
Where do y'all think catch cans in terms of necessary/unnecessary?
 

LokiWolf

Active Member
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320
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182
Location
Henrico, VA
#5
Where do y'all think catch cans in terms of necessary/unnecessary?
Necessary if you want to protect your motor from buildup... $150 and take less than 20 minutes to install.

Welcome. I am also in the RVA!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

FalconST

New Member
Messages
3
Reactions
2
Points
2
Location
Houston, TX, USA
#7
How often does the catch can need to be emptied?
 

JohnE

Active Member
Messages
513
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281
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82
Location
Vancouver, WA, USA
#9
How often does the catch can need to be emptied?
Strangely enough, my UPR hasn’t had any oil in it. I’ve only got 5,000 miles on the ST now and installed it at 1,000 miles but still I think I should have some; the motor can’t be that tight. My GMC truck would get an ounce or two every 1,000 or so.
 

zdubyadubya

Active Member
Messages
813
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636
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232
Location
Utah
Vehicle
2020 ST
#10
Strangely enough, my UPR hasn’t had any oil in it. I’ve only got 5,000 miles on the ST now and installed it at 1,000 miles but still I think I should have some; the motor can’t be that tight. My GMC truck would get an ounce or two every 1,000 or so.
Same situation here. 6k on the odo, installed at <500miles -- maybe a 1/4tsp when i checked at 5000 miles. and I have not been kind to this engine since it was broke in.
 

Messages
131
Reactions
101
Points
27
Location
Albuquerque, NM, USA
#12
Strangely enough, my UPR hasn’t had any oil in it. I’ve only got 5,000 miles on the ST now and installed it at 1,000 miles but still I think I should have some; the motor can’t be that tight. My GMC truck would get an ounce or two every 1,000 or so.
there is something wrong then
 

Messages
131
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101
Points
27
Location
Albuquerque, NM, USA
#13
Same situation here. 6k on the odo, installed at <500miles -- maybe a 1/4tsp when i checked at 5000 miles. and I have not been kind to this engine since it was broke in.
I get at least 1-2 shot glasses worth every 5k
 

JohnE

Active Member
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Location
Vancouver, WA, USA
#14
there is something wrong then
Checked and rechecked the connections and checked both check valves for operation. All good. I spoke with UPR and they confirmed that some engines are just tighter than others so less blow-by. I have had condensation in the can before which ends up evaporating and gets pulled through the intake when warmed up so it is circulating correctly.
 

Messages
131
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101
Points
27
Location
Albuquerque, NM, USA
#15
Checked and rechecked the connections and checked both check valves for operation. All good. I spoke with UPR and they confirmed that some engines are just tighter than others so less blow-by. I have had condensation in the can before which ends up evaporating and gets pulled through the intake when warmed up so it is circulating correctly.
and you removed and replaced the stock PCV with the large opening? you checked the direction of the check valves?
 

JohnE

Active Member
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Location
Vancouver, WA, USA
#16
and you removed and replaced the stock PCV with the large opening? you checked the direction of the check valves?
I did check direction and both flow away from the can. I didn’t put the largest orifice where the stock PCV was but did 2nd to the largest. One side port of the can is vacuum from the intake manifold, the other side port is going to the intake tube for full throttle vacuum and the top port of the can is the dirty side; from the crankcase where the stock PCV was, passenger side valve cover.
 

Last edited:
Messages
131
Reactions
101
Points
27
Location
Albuquerque, NM, USA
#17
I did check direction and both flow away from the can. I didn’t put the largest orifice where the stock PCV was but did 2nd to the largest. One side port of the can is vacuum from the intake manifold, the other side port is going to the intake tube for full throttle vacuum and the top port of the can is the dirty side; from the crankcase where the stock PCV was, passenger side valve cover.
did you get the driver side PCV upgrade thing? forgot what it is called. check out my video to see what i am talking about if it is confusing.
 

JohnE

Active Member
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Location
Vancouver, WA, USA
#18
did you get the driver side PCV upgrade thing? forgot what it is called. check out my video to see what i am talking about if it is confusing.
I did. That’s the electronic clean side separator that’s got the pain in the ass connector on it. I decided to break that orange connector off and got one of the blue replacement connectors. I did watch your video on that too.
 

Messages
52
Reactions
18
Points
7
Location
NYC, NY, USA
#19
Hmmm thinking of pulling the trigger on one,
But doesnt the eco boost have port and GDI? Does the valves still gunk up with PFI?
 

LokiWolf

Active Member
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Location
Henrico, VA
#20
Hmmm thinking of pulling the trigger on one,
But doesnt the eco boost have port and GDI? Does the valves still gunk up with PFI?
The 3.0 in the ST is only DI.

The UPR kit is way overkill. It requires A LOT of extra work. Just get a JLT, save a bunch of money and a lot of time and catch between 80-95% of what the UPR catches. JLT takes 20 minutes to install.


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