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Turbo Issues/No boost

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Detroit, MI, USA
#1
My Explorer has about 15,000 miles on it now and while driving today I went to get on the gas and suddenly there was no power. I had this once before but the vehicle went back to normal the next time I tried getting on the gas. However, this time no matter what there was no power, if I downshift or hammer down from a stop there’s nothing. I’ve been very careful with my car, waiting for the engine to fully warm up before giving it gas, frequent oil changes, I even give the car a cool down period after every drive before shutting it off. I do mostly highway driving so im shocked im having this issue so soon. Has anyone else encountered this issue? I don’t see any loose connections, and im doubtful my fenfab downpipes would have caused an issue.
 

Last edited:

Cdubya

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#2
No check engine lights or warnings? Did you try pulling codes?
 

OP
Chrisicle
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Thread Starter #3
No lights, i just went for a drive and the OBD2 isn’t really picking up much unusual, TP% was only 45 but I would think if the turbos aren’t spooling up it might not open all the way. I’m not sure honestly. I’ve never had a turbo charged vehicle before
 

SOUTHFLST

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#4
If it’s limiting throttle it’s likely in limp mode. Try resetting the ecu and see if the problem is still there. If it is, I would suggest looking for a disconnected intercooler hose.
 

OP
Chrisicle
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Thread Starter #5
If it’s limiting throttle it’s likely in limp mode. Try resetting the ecu and see if the problem is still there. If it is, I would suggest looking for a disconnected intercooler hose.
After disconnecting and reconnecting hoses and wires it felt better but not completely there and I tried resetting the ECU like you suggested and I think it’s almost back to normal. I’m struggling to tell honestly, it feels like I may be missing a little kick down low but on the top end it feels as good as it’s always did.
 

Cdubya

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#6
Did you pull codes with Forscan or just a generic OBD2?
 

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Chrisicle
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Thread Starter #7
Did you pull codes with Forscan or just a generic OBD2?
Just a generic OBD2, I have yet to actually buy the usb/obd2 converter in order to use forescan
 

SOUTHFLST

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#8
After disconnecting and reconnecting hoses and wires it felt better but not completely there and I tried resetting the ECU like you suggested and I think it’s almost back to normal. I’m struggling to tell honestly, it feels like I may be missing a little kick down low but on the top end it feels as good as it’s always did.
Nice. Sounds like you may have freaked out the ecu when you unplugged something. Vacuum leaks can cause limp mode too. So if you continue to have a problem, you may want to do a boost leak test.
 

2manycars4me

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2023 Durango SRT Hellcat
#9
I had this happen to mine and scheduled a visit to the dealer, begrudgingly. I hooked up Forscan and found a weird code. I reset the codes, it didn't throw a Check Engine light, and the power was back. I cancelled the appointment because I knew it would be a could not duplicate issue.
 

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Chrisicle
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Thread Starter #10
I had this happen to mine and scheduled a visit to the dealer, begrudgingly. I hooked up Forscan and found a weird code. I reset the codes, it didn't throw a Check Engine light, and the power was back. I cancelled the appointment because I knew it would be a could not duplicate issue.
Do you recall what that weird code was? Once I get my USB/OBD2 converter it would be nice to know what to look out for if for some reason it occurred again.
 

2manycars4me

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#11
It has been a while since I reset it. It was the only code listed. I thought it was odd to have it and not throw the check engine light. When I cleared all the codes with the Forscan the ST reacted normal. The ST drove like it had no turbos. When I would leave work there is a stretch I can hit it to get up to the speed limit. I noticed a significant speed difference between having the code and not having it. I'll see if I saved the file and see what code it was.
 

Winfire4

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#12
I’ve had the same problem on my 2021 400A ST twice now. Randomly loses power and won’t accelerate properly, almost like it’s in some kind of limp mode. No codes or warning lights either. The issue usually lasts a day or 2 then power starts to come back. Pretty disappointing for a $50K plus vehicle.
 

DaveG ST

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#13
I had this happen to me 2 days ago. Sat waiting for a tow truck for 3 hours. ST sitting at dealer. They tried to not to give me a loaner, so I called Ford Customer Service and they made dealer give me a loaner, as it is covered during the warranty period. Basically Ford covers the cost of the loaner by reimbursing the dealer, just like it does with the actual repairs done under warranty. Soon, Ford will lose money on my ST, as they have paid to have it towed a few times and it has been in the shop several times, oh well.
 

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#14
This happened to mine when I had 2k miles on it. The dealer reset the transmission and all was ok afterwards. They performed a tab regarding stuck solinoids in the transmission, which they said happens in the 10spd. They also said you cannot unhook the battery to reset the transmission learning, they have to hook it up and flash it. Seems to have worked, I'm at 14k with no issues.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
 

Kapster55

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Tacoma, WA, USA
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2021 Ford Explorer ST
#15
Have a 2021 with about 28K for miles and the wrench light came on for the 3rd time whilst powering up a mountain pass, not excessive. The P0299 code was showing when limped it to a local area dealer. I have had the car in the shop twice before for this same issue, first time they replace a valve and the second time they stated that the resonators were breaking up and that caused it . I replaced the resonators and here we are again. I do have a Whipple intercooler installed on the vehicle but thats the only mods it has. Has something come loose? I'm surprised the dealer didn't try claiming it was the intercooler the first 2 times. intercooler has been on car for over a year now.

Thoughts??
 

TMac

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#16
What "valve" did they replace? Did that fix the problem? When you say they replaced "resonators", to what are you specifically referring? DId that fix the problem?

My first bet is since you have replaced your intercooler it is a boost leak. Need more info.
 

Kapster55

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#17
I would have to check which valve but neither that nor replacing the resonators fixed the problem. You could be right on the intercooler, but there were not many things that needed to be swapped over.
 

TMac

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#18
If you're trying to fix this yourself, you need to check all the connections between the turbo compressor outlets and the throttle body. If you don't know how to do this, don't know what "valve" was replaced, and can't respond to my question on "resonator", I suggest you take it to someone who does.
 

Kapster55

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#19
I don't know what valve off the top of my head and I did state that replacing the resonators didn't fix it hence it did it again. Not looking for a magical fix, nor stated that was going to fix it myself I am merely looking for some ideas from anyone that has possibly experienced this before.

appreciate your input.
 

TMac

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#20
Please don't take this the wrong way. I understand your frustration. But honestly, these vehicles are extremely complicated. You either have an easily diagnosed boost leak, or it's more complex. If diagnosing a boost leak is not your expertise, I understand, but then you're out of luck for any DIY fix. There just isn't some "push this button while pressing the brake pedal for a reboot" that anyone can give you. Sorry.
 



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