What Down pipes should i order?

[SparxX]

Ok so I would love to keep this super simple, im an optimistic guy with this newly purchased ST, so I have looked, and looked, and honestly I'm tired of reading through threads, just to find out in the end it's a bummer for folks lol.

I was sold on whoosh DPs based on price, then I seen everyone getting CEL.

I have so much shit sitting shopping carts I'm becoming overwhelmed.

Can anyone point me in the correct direction for down pipes please..... and why is FENFAB pipes so much more? Of fenfab is using 300cel cats and whoosh is using 400cel and folks are having codes. Bahhhhh

Whats the best option? Or leave em alone?

I appreciate you all and im sorry I'm so new to this ST, I come from diesels, Mitsubishi Evos, and subarus.

 

[bbbart]

With FenFab you're paying for the better than average structural integrity and quick customer service. It's essentially the closest you can get to handmade quality. You can check his pages to see the meticulous work he puts into welding and machining his parts. If you want something to last as long as possible, FenFab parts are a good choice. The others will surely perform well, I can only speak on the FenFab dp.

 

[UNBROKEN]

FenFab is 400 cell…all of them are.

 

[SparxX]

With FenFab you're paying for the better than average structural integrity and quick customer service. It's essentially the closest you can get to handmade quality. You can check his pages to see the meticulous work he puts into welding and machining his parts. If you want something to last as long as possible, FenFab parts are a good choice. The others will surely perform well, I can only speak on the FenFab dp.

Hey, thanks so much for the help, I went down the rabbit hole last night haha

 

[SparxX]

FenFab is 400 cell…all of them are.

Oh ok, sweet. Yah I read something somewhere different, but they were old threads, so I appreciate the more accurate up to date info for sure.

I know there is a huge amount of stuff already talked about on here and apologies for just asking for info or stuff that's already been spoken of.

 

[SparxX]

FenFab is 400 cell…all of them are.

How much of a Pita are they to swap, trying to become YOUTUBE certified here lol and I've seen some very interesting ways to do it, so to speak lmao

 

[Cruising68]

How much of a Pita are they to swap, trying to become YOUTUBE certified here lol and I've seen some very interesting ways to do it, so to speak lmao

Drivers side easy, passenger side sucks. Took me less than an hour on drivers and several hours on the passenger. Needed to get the heat shield off so I could get to the second nut.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WFO-TSi]

How much of a Pita are they to swap, trying to become YOUTUBE certified here lol and I've seen some very interesting ways to do it, so to speak lmao

You are right, most YouTube videos make it seem like a PITA, but I did it on my garage floor in 5 total hours (on the second attempt).

1) Are you thinking about doing it on a lift or the floor?

2) Are the DP's going to be installed on the factory exhaust?

I definitely have some lessons I learned the hard way that I can pass along if you plan on doing it on the floor of the garage.

The first socket I bought was too deep and there wasn't enough clearance for to fit on the inside bolt on the passenger side turbo...so I had to put it all back together. The following weekend I did it on jackstands instead of ramps. On jackstands, with the Explorer supported on the factory hoist lifting points, the front subframe dropped a lot more than when it was on ramps. Remove the bolts from and support the transmission support brace (like shown in all the videos). Then I removed the pair of rear-most subframe bolts completely. The pair of subframe bolts in the middle...I backed out the driver's side bolt 4 full turns and the passenger side 5 full turns. With the gap provided I didn't need to mess with removing heat shields.

Being that yours is a 2020 Explorer it might not be a bad idea to soak the nuts/studs with WD40 and let it sit. I did it on mine which is a 2023 only because I had driven it a number of times through floodwater, and the weekend I did the swap it was "feels like" 100+ degrees and I needed a break. I used vacuum hose on a spray can with a built-in hose to ensure I didn't douse the whole exhaust side of the turbo.

Despite what some video's show I only needed 1 universal joint. My 3/8" extensions flexed a ton on the first go around but on attempt #2 I used 1/2" and it made it easier.

Take advantage of the fact that you will have the back half of the exhaust off. If you plan on installing a full exhaust system now is the time to do it. If you plan on eventually installing Steeda's Rear Diff/Pinion Bushing Kit, I'd do it at the mid-point of the DP install as I had to practically remove the exhaust to get at the driver's side bolt to install their kit.

CV Fab Downpipes throw codes without the use of their O2 extenders.

...I'm drawing a blank...if I can think of anything else that will help, I will add it

 

[SparxX]

You are right, most YouTube videos make it seem like a PITA, but I did it on my garage floor in 5 total hours (on the second attempt).

1) Are you thinking about doing it on a lift or the floor?

2) Are the DP's going to be installed on the factory exhaust?

I definitely have some lessons I learned the hard way that I can pass along if you plan on doing it on the floor of the garage.

The first socket I bought was too deep and there wasn't enough clearance for to fit on the inside bolt on the passenger side turbo...so I had to put it all back together. The following weekend I did it on jackstands instead of ramps. On jackstands, with the Explorer supported on the factory hoist lifting points, the front subframe dropped a lot more than when it was on ramps. Remove the bolts from and support the transmission support brace (like shown in all the videos). Then I removed the pair of rear-most subframe bolts completely. The pair of subframe bolts in the middle...I backed out the driver's side bolt 4 full turns and the passenger side 5 full turns. With the gap provided I didn't need to mess with removing heat shields.

Being that yours is a 2020 Explorer it might not be a bad idea to soak the nuts/studs with WD40 and let it sit. I did it on mine which is a 2023 only because I had driven it a number of times through floodwater, and the weekend I did the swap it was "feels like" 100+ degrees and I needed a break. I used vacuum hose on a spray can with a built-in hose to ensure I didn't douse the whole exhaust side of the turbo.

Despite what some video's show I only needed 1 universal joint. My 3/8" extensions flexed a ton on the first go around but on attempt #2 I used 1/2" and it made it easier.

Take advantage of the fact that you will have the back half of the exhaust off. If you plan on installing a full exhaust system now is the time to do it. If you plan on eventually installing Steeda's Rear Diff/Pinion Bushing Kit, I'd do it at the mid-point of the DP install as I had to practically remove the exhaust to get at the driver's side bolt to install their kit.

CV Fab Downpipes throw codes without the use of their O2 extenders.

...I'm drawing a blank...if I can think of anything else that will help, I will add it

Thanks so MUCH, yah I do plan on swapping to a deep exhaust, can't do drone or rasp. Lol I will also be doing them on a Lift, seriously the best investment in my garage lol.

 

[SparxX]

You are right, most YouTube videos make it seem like a PITA, but I did it on my garage floor in 5 total hours (on the second attempt).

1) Are you thinking about doing it on a lift or the floor?

2) Are the DP's going to be installed on the factory exhaust?

I definitely have some lessons I learned the hard way that I can pass along if you plan on doing it on the floor of the garage.

The first socket I bought was too deep and there wasn't enough clearance for to fit on the inside bolt on the passenger side turbo...so I had to put it all back together. The following weekend I did it on jackstands instead of ramps. On jackstands, with the Explorer supported on the factory hoist lifting points, the front subframe dropped a lot more than when it was on ramps. Remove the bolts from and support the transmission support brace (like shown in all the videos). Then I removed the pair of rear-most subframe bolts completely. The pair of subframe bolts in the middle...I backed out the driver's side bolt 4 full turns and the passenger side 5 full turns. With the gap provided I didn't need to mess with removing heat shields.

Being that yours is a 2020 Explorer it might not be a bad idea to soak the nuts/studs with WD40 and let it sit. I did it on mine which is a 2023 only because I had driven it a number of times through floodwater, and the weekend I did the swap it was "feels like" 100+ degrees and I needed a break. I used vacuum hose on a spray can with a built-in hose to ensure I didn't douse the whole exhaust side of the turbo.

Despite what some video's show I only needed 1 universal joint. My 3/8" extensions flexed a ton on the first go around but on attempt #2 I used 1/2" and it made it easier.

Take advantage of the fact that you will have the back half of the exhaust off. If you plan on installing a full exhaust system now is the time to do it. If you plan on eventually installing Steeda's Rear Diff/Pinion Bushing Kit, I'd do it at the mid-point of the DP install as I had to practically remove the exhaust to get at the driver's side bolt to install their kit.

CV Fab Downpipes throw codes without the use of their O2 extenders.

...I'm drawing a blank...if I can think of anything else that will help, I will add it

Do all these down pipes need or come with the extenders?

Or will a ZFG tune solve all that

 

[WFO-TSi]

@SparxX I don't know if all aftermarket downpipe's require extenders. I can only speak for my experience with the downpipes from CV Fab.

Once upon a time you could use HP Tuner's to disable the Catalyst Inefficiency codes (P0420/P0430) for those of us that raced in closed circuit conditions in Mexico. Maybe ZFG has a way around it, but I really doubt he'd be willing to risk it.

 

[MattC0509]

Ok so I would love to keep this super simple, im an optimistic guy with this newly purchased ST, so I have looked, and looked, and honestly I'm tired of reading through threads, just to find out in the end it's a bummer for folks lol.

I was sold on whoosh DPs based on price, then I seen everyone getting CEL.

I have so much shit sitting shopping carts I'm becoming overwhelmed.

Can anyone point me in the correct direction for down pipes please..... and why is FENFAB pipes so much more? Of fenfab is using 300cel cats and whoosh is using 400cel and folks are having codes. Bahhhhh

Whats the best option? Or leave em alone?

I appreciate you all and im sorry I'm so new to this ST, I come from diesels, Mitsubishi Evos, and subarus.

I've had the whoosh DP's since they came out and have maybe 17k miles with them on and I've never had a single CEL. I have a 2020 and they were connected to Thermal R&D 2.5" exhaust.

 

[Cruising68]

I have SPD and no defaulters and no check engine light.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SparxX]

@SparxX I don't know if all aftermarket downpipe's require extenders. I can only speak for my experience with the downpipes from CV Fab.

Once upon a time you could use HP Tuner's to disable the Catalyst Inefficiency codes (P0420/P0430) for those of us that raced in closed circuit conditions in Mexico. Maybe ZFG has a way around it, but I really doubt he'd be willing to risk it.

Yah I 100% understand that risk factor, not worth it to him. Lol I actually was on the site today trying to buy my cooler from CV since they have their summer code for 10% off. Haha ended up purchasing several at ounce lmao

 

[Erl11]

I've had the whoosh DP's since they came out and have maybe 17k miles with them on and I've never had a single CEL. I have a 2020 and they were connected to Thermal R&D 2.5" exhaust.

Did you have to use their 90 degree defouler? https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...ee-defouler-fiesta-st-focus-st-rs-explorer-st

 

[MattC0509]

Did you have to use their 90 degree defouler? https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...ee-defouler-fiesta-st-focus-st-rs-explorer-st

I did not. Simply purchased the downpipes as they come.

 

[ST PETE]

Any you guys worried about smog test?

 

[MattC0509]

Any you guys worried about smog test?

I'm in Texas and yearly inspection is largely just making sure all of your lights work and you have insurance with no CEL

 

[ST PETE]

Thanks Matt. I'm in Oregon where they plug in to the OBD port to check. A little concerned even with a 440 cel cat.

 

[SparxX]

Love all the info and feedback. Just finished up with goosetune on what I currently have.

Still need to do downpipes. It sucks because some guy here local has fenfab catless ones. But not wanting to mess with not being able to tune more with goose so I have to pass on them .