UPR catch can and orange fitting solution.

Is this the fitting, 2025-40?
View attachment 1806

This x1000.



Just take a flat blade screwdriver and start in where the orange mechanism is on the side of the connector. Just start gently prying the orange plastic part out and away. It breaks easier and into pieces quicker than you think. If you buy the new UPR connector, you don't have to worry about busting up the old 90* piece (which I doubt you would anyway), just don't go so hard at it and beat the piss out of it and possibly break the nipple off the valve cover. I don't know how that'd be possible, just take it easy, I guess.

I didn't want to sacrifice my old hose connectors, so the $9 + shipping for the new connector I could heatgun on made the install so much easier and braindead simple

If you guys are going to buy the new UPR connector, you can buy the same one from eBay $9 FREE SHIPPING, from: https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Ford-90-Degree-Quick-Connect-Catch-Can-PCV-Valve-Cover-Fittings-5-8-Hose/264640753743?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649, they get it directly from UPR, because I bought one, and received an email invoice confirmation directly from UPR, minus the shipping!!

With the cars being relatively new, do I really have to empty it every 1500? or can I wait till the oil change??

If anyone is struggling with the orange fitting, looks like they updated their instructions. See page 7 of link https://uprproducts.com/content/5030-249-ECSS.pdf

I had ordered the jlt oil separator any real difference between it and the upr?


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Two big differences, a) the line to the intake tube pulls vacuum even when the truck is under hard acceleration; by design a PCV valve will only have vacuum at idle. therefore you will get more oil with a upr design as opposed to a jlt design. b) the upr catch can pulls from both the "clean side" and "dirty side". the clean side separator included in the upr kit isn't necessarily important but its one of those nice to have things.

Two big differences, a) the line to the intake tube pulls vacuum even when the truck is under hard acceleration; by design a PCV valve will only have vacuum at idle. therefore you will get more oil with a upr design as opposed to a jlt design. b) the upr catch can pulls from both the "clean side" and "dirty side". the clean side separator included in the upr kit isn't necessarily important but its one of those nice to have things.

Not having ever used a catch can, There is big difference in price as well. Which is why i've held off on ordering the UPR, they do look pretty similar; is it really worth the extra 200 bucks?
Does it come with 3 hoses as opposed to 2 in the JLT? I'm guessing the filter is probably better in the UPR as well.

Thanks for the help!

Looks like there are a lot of add-ons available, are any of them worth it? O-rings, Check valves, Hi Flow PCV fitting?

OK, I went and bought the UPR Oil Catch Can System and installed it.
Main portion of the installation is pretty straight forward and goes as the directions and UPR's video.
Now the fun part everyone is all abuzz about, the FRACKEN Orange Connector. The UPR directions will work if: a. You have girls hands (no offence intended to our female counterparts) and b. You have skinny girl forearms to go with those hands. and c. You're 6 FT 4 so you can easily reach over the fender to the FRACKEN Connector.
Now in the REAL WORLD, the one I live in, you're 5 FT 11 and have fat hands that become very large fists without effort when working in tight places and large forearms to match.
UPRs right angle pointy object tab release tool is a recipe for many puncture wounds and a certain amount of blood if one is unfamiliar with working with such lethal objects, fortunately I am versed in such mechanical combat so self wounding was held to a minimum.
After a prolonged combat session with said connector, I backed off to regroup and think matters through. After all this part of the install is a bonus and technically not required.
During my contemplation I considered breaking the hell out of the connector and substituting the orange crap for blue locking device from a removed connector but many, many, many years of aircraft maintenance has taught me that I am smarted than the FRACKEN Engineer that designed these POS connectors because some Mechanic at some time hurt his college educated feelings by showing him up. (US professional "knuckle draggers" have been known to proudly do this on many occasions.)
So I said to myself: "Self, use your years of solution solving and come up with something that will work!"
OK all you Mechs out there! How do you remove an inline fuel filter from a 60 thru 80's Ford!?! You get your Fuel Filter Tool that clamps over the fuel line and then is pushed into the connector for the fuel filter to release it!
Of course no such tool is available for this connector but the removal principal is sound, so make a damn tool and KISS (keep it simple stupid).
Shim stock! I make mine out of an Old Wounded Warrior membership card, because it was: a. I had one. b. it is flexible. and c. I could make several prototypes if necessary from 1 card.
I cut a 1/2 inch strip from the top of the card, I trimmed it to 2 and 1/2 inches in length and I then formed it round/circular by bending if around a 1/2 inch socket. I checked my fit against the spare blue connector for depth and circumference. I trimmed accordingly, a 1/4 inch gap between the ends is OK.
I then contorted myself under the hood and slipped my shim into place. When I was satisfied I forced the shim up into the connector with a broad tip flat blade screwdriver (the one I uses was 6 inches from handle base to tip, minor force is required and I tugged at the connector. Success!
After that, everything was as per the directions!
I have a new Blue 90 degree connector coming from eBay and I WILL change the nasty ass orange bastard just because! BTW my shim was .025 thick.