1000 mile oil change.

No, break-in oil not is used any more; it’s been many years. Aviation still uses ashless dispersant and high Zinc additives on new engines but tolerances are so tight and consistent now and engines are run on the line prior to installing them. Rings are seated long before the car is ever driven. Break in schedules are primarily for the trans and diff.

So y'all say if I take it to a quick Lube , which my little town has, that if I keep the receipt, my warranty will not be affected.

I'd rather give the business to my locals. Plus save about $20.

Jim

Correct

while not break-in oil persay, a few of us have sent our first oil changes to blackstone (search for the thread on here). it came back 5w-20. so the factory fill up IS different than what is recommended in the user manual. i will be updating that thread with all my oil change results so we should be able to get a good look at the type of wear this motor experiences. i changed out the stock oil for Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic.

While I didn’t do a Blackstone oil analysis on this motor, I have on previous ones and with GDI engines, there is the factor of fuel dilution that happens which does reduce the viscosity of the oil.

Per Blackstone... there was no fuel in the oil

I did the same at 1500 miles and had similar results. Viscosity was a bit low, but nothing to worry about. No fuel in oil.

would you mind posting your results in the thread below? i would really like to get a sample size bigger than two. lol.

https://www.explorerst.org/threads/blackstone-oil-analysis-reports.907/

I have spoken to multiple service advisors and they have all told me that there is no such thing as break in oil. You can switch any time is what they told me. So I changed mine to Mobil 1 within 50 miles of delivery. I am Not a Tech so just going by what the service advisors have told me and I did change mine.

Is there really a break in period on this motor?
No one at the dealership said anything about it. I’m at 200 miles now and have gotten on it pretty good twice. The engine was not cold and was on the highway. 120 comes pretty quick

Short answer, no. Trans and rear gear yes but not critical. It’s good to fluctuate speed for a while when new as this wears in mating surfaces more uniformly. Heat cycles are good too.

From everything I've learned there is no break in oil anymore and no need to change it at 1000 miles. That having been said I've done a 1000 mile oil change on everything I've owned for over 50 years and I'm not about to stop doing that now. I had mine changed, at the dealer for free as part of the extended warranty, at 1100 miles.

There isnt a break in period but the ECU throttles both shift speed and engine rpm for the first 500 miles to help protect things.

I had a thought because it seems like it is going to be a little more difficult to change my oil on the ST than it was on my 2017 Explorer. Any chance you can drain the oil by pulling it through the top of the engine, either through the dipstick or the filter housing, maybe through a siphoning system?

Having done the oil change myself already, I can tell you that it isn't exactly difficult, but it IS slightly more awkward just from the positioning of everything.

The only real awkward stuff underneath is that there is a small plate that you have to remove to access the oil pan drain plug, and that small plastic shield/plate is held in place by about 5 small bolts and 5 plastic clips (serious overkill for a piece of plastic this size). Some people complain about Ford's new plastic tool-free drain plug but I used it and it is fine - don't make the mistake some people have made and break the plug by trying to use tools to remove it - it IS tool-free. When you go to untwist it, it will take a bit of extra force for the the locking tabs to overcome their little recesses and pop free, but apart from that it is very easy to remove the plug by just using your bare hand and turning it by its built-in handle. The only caution I would make here is that it only has to turn about 1/2 a turn or so before it's ready to come out - you'll see why when you have it in your hand, it's not regular threads but more like the threads on the engine oil filler cap - so have your drain pan ready and wear a glove if you don't want to get oil on your hand and everywhere else. It will come out at a fair velocity because the hole is a decent size.

The only issues up top are the just the awkward placement of the stabilizer cross bar thing. It's right over top of the oil filter housing and mostly over top of the oil filler cap. But with the right combination of socket, swivel joint, extension, and ratchet, it can be done. Once you get the oil filter housing out, the filter might stick on the housing but it comes off with some twisting and pulling. The tiny o-rings on the end of the slightly phallic post that goes up the middle of the oil filter can be tricky to remove and replace, but a pocket screwdriver and pre-lubing them with some engine oil will be your best friend. Patience here. Also, it is best to remove the oil filter first or at least open the housing - this lets oil in the housing drain down into the sump so that when you drain the oil pan, you won't leave behind a couple hundred millilitres of old oil in the system. I worked in an oil change pit for 8 years and I saw how much came out when people released the oil filters after I had already drained the oil pan - it's enough that you should make sure to do it right.

After that, really, you just need a decently long-neck funnel on an angle to get the oil into the oil filler.

Mildly awkward but still doable by anyone with basic tools and basic skills. Two-beer job at most.