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Oil catch cans

J

JCotterman

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#1
Hello everyone!
Got my black/black 2021 ST today and going through the forums. Can someone please tell me about the oil catch cans and if they are really worth $400 price?
Never heard of such a thing.
Thank you in advance
 

DoingOK

DoingOK

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^^Agreed. JLT is only about 25 minutes away from me. They used my Raptor to prototype a solution. Good people.
 

R

RVAwhat

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Where do y'all think catch cans in terms of necessary/unnecessary?
 

LokiWolf

LokiWolf

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RVAwhat said:
Where do y'all think catch cans in terms of necessary/unnecessary?
Click to expand...
Necessary if you want to protect your motor from buildup... $150 and take less than 20 minutes to install.

Welcome. I am also in the RVA!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

F

FalconST

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How often does the catch can need to be emptied?
 

JohnE

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FalconST said:
How often does the catch can need to be emptied?
Click to expand...
Strangely enough, my UPR hasn’t had any oil in it. I’ve only got 5,000 miles on the ST now and installed it at 1,000 miles but still I think I should have some; the motor can’t be that tight. My GMC truck would get an ounce or two every 1,000 or so.
 

Z

zdubyadubya

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#10
JohnE said:
Strangely enough, my UPR hasn’t had any oil in it. I’ve only got 5,000 miles on the ST now and installed it at 1,000 miles but still I think I should have some; the motor can’t be that tight. My GMC truck would get an ounce or two every 1,000 or so.
Click to expand...
Same situation here. 6k on the odo, installed at <500miles -- maybe a 1/4tsp when i checked at 5000 miles. and I have not been kind to this engine since it was broke in.
 

FatGuyBuilds_YT

FatGuyBuilds_YT

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JohnE said:
Strangely enough, my UPR hasn’t had any oil in it. I’ve only got 5,000 miles on the ST now and installed it at 1,000 miles but still I think I should have some; the motor can’t be that tight. My GMC truck would get an ounce or two every 1,000 or so.
Click to expand...
there is something wrong then
 

FatGuyBuilds_YT

FatGuyBuilds_YT

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zdubyadubya said:
Same situation here. 6k on the odo, installed at <500miles -- maybe a 1/4tsp when i checked at 5000 miles. and I have not been kind to this engine since it was broke in.
Click to expand...
I get at least 1-2 shot glasses worth every 5k
 

JohnE

JohnE

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FatGuyBuilds_YT said:
there is something wrong then
Click to expand...
Checked and rechecked the connections and checked both check valves for operation. All good. I spoke with UPR and they confirmed that some engines are just tighter than others so less blow-by. I have had condensation in the can before which ends up evaporating and gets pulled through the intake when warmed up so it is circulating correctly.
 

FatGuyBuilds_YT

FatGuyBuilds_YT

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JohnE said:
Checked and rechecked the connections and checked both check valves for operation. All good. I spoke with UPR and they confirmed that some engines are just tighter than others so less blow-by. I have had condensation in the can before which ends up evaporating and gets pulled through the intake when warmed up so it is circulating correctly.
Click to expand...
and you removed and replaced the stock PCV with the large opening? you checked the direction of the check valves?
 

JohnE

JohnE

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FatGuyBuilds_YT said:
and you removed and replaced the stock PCV with the large opening? you checked the direction of the check valves?
Click to expand...
I did check direction and both flow away from the can. I didn’t put the largest orifice where the stock PCV was but did 2nd to the largest. One side port of the can is vacuum from the intake manifold, the other side port is going to the intake tube for full throttle vacuum and the top port of the can is the dirty side; from the crankcase where the stock PCV was, passenger side valve cover.
 

Last edited:
FatGuyBuilds_YT

FatGuyBuilds_YT

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JohnE said:
I did check direction and both flow away from the can. I didn’t put the largest orifice where the stock PCV was but did 2nd to the largest. One side port of the can is vacuum from the intake manifold, the other side port is going to the intake tube for full throttle vacuum and the top port of the can is the dirty side; from the crankcase where the stock PCV was, passenger side valve cover.
Click to expand...
did you get the driver side PCV upgrade thing? forgot what it is called. check out my video to see what i am talking about if it is confusing.
 

JohnE

JohnE

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FatGuyBuilds_YT said:
did you get the driver side PCV upgrade thing? forgot what it is called. check out my video to see what i am talking about if it is confusing.
Click to expand...
I did. That’s the electronic clean side separator that’s got the pain in the ass connector on it. I decided to break that orange connector off and got one of the blue replacement connectors. I did watch your video on that too.
 

D

dragon434

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Hmmm thinking of pulling the trigger on one,
But doesnt the eco boost have port and GDI? Does the valves still gunk up with PFI?
 

LokiWolf

LokiWolf

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dragon434 said:
Hmmm thinking of pulling the trigger on one,
But doesnt the eco boost have port and GDI? Does the valves still gunk up with PFI?
Click to expand...
The 3.0 in the ST is only DI.

The UPR kit is way overkill. It requires A LOT of extra work. Just get a JLT, save a bunch of money and a lot of time and catch between 80-95% of what the UPR catches. JLT takes 20 minutes to install.


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