Driver’s window & voltages

Out of curiosity has anyone had their driver side window go auto-up, and then when it gets all the way up it suddenly drops back down on its own almost all the way down and then stops at just a few inches from the bottom, and THEN won’t go auto up anymore?

New one on me. I can raise it up by holding the switch, but the auto-up does NOT work, and then when I hold it all the way up to the top it hits full-closed and then goes back down again.

Additionally, my battery is regularly under 12 volts when the engine is off. The dash (engineering mode) shows mid to high 11 volts, once it got down to 11.2 or .3 after sitting parked in my driveway for 3 days, and I got a deep sleep warning on Fordpass. Had it into the dealer, they charged the battery and tested it and it tested good. They said it’s the fact that the car is sitting too long due to COVID...which is not the case, I still commute to work on the daily, 30+ minutes each way at least, and rack up at least 2-3000km per month.

When the engine is running the dash shows the mid-14’s which suggests good charging to me. But as soon as the engine is off, the battery is low 12’s and within a few hours it is down into the high 11’s. My own battery tester says the battery is good, just always needs recharging. I can’t tell if something is DRAINING the battery or if the battery just isn’t holding a charge.

I’ve seen the TSB about the battery drain etc, but I’m pretty sure the cutoff for that was August 2019 and mine was a June 2020 build. Also, I was just at the dealer in January and they reprogrammed the APIM to the most recent spec as their way of repairing the dead backup camera.

I've had the window issue twice. It's like it detects it hits something at the top and drops back to about half open. IIRC, you hold the switch up and it should remain closed, then turn the car off. The auto-up is a separate issue and just needs a reset.

As for the battery, my issue might be different as I have a June 2019 build and had old firmware that needed updating. Still, I get frequent deep sleep notifications, especially during winter. I've never had a dead battery though. Mine also doesn't dip to the low 11's. Usually 11.8 or so.

Thanks. That reset trick worked. As for the whole battery issue, it’s unusual that the battery should be below 12 V whenever the car isn’t running, or at least I would have thought so. I’ll be doing some experimentation to see what happens. To start with I’ve turned off all the connectivity stuff to see if it’s being drained by that. I’d like to put a better battery in this thing.

Does yours go into the 11’s within a day of being parked?

I don't think it does. Hard to be sure as I don't check it frequently as of late. My method of checking is to setting my radar detector on voltage display. So I see 14.5V while engine running and something like 12.3 immediately when shutting the engine off. Before module updates, I might get deep sleep triggered later in the same day. Not sure what voltage triggers that. I even installed a pigtail for trickle charger so that if I didn't plan to drive it in a few days, I'd put it on the Battery Tender Plus.

Fair enough. Thank you.

A battery at 11.2 volts is dead and probably wouldn't start the vehicle so my guess is the component measuring the voltage is faulty. Easy to check if you have a multi meter. Drawing a 12 volt battery down to 12.2 and lower on a regular bases isn't good for it especially if it sets uncharged, a car battery should maintain a charge of 12.4 to 12.6 volts.

I will also say that Ford's are the worst for parasitic power draws when parked and Chevy's aren't much better. If I let a Ford or Chev set a month the battery won't start the vehicle and at 2 months the battery is trash due to having every bit of energy drained. Ram pickups can set for months and still start right up.

I don't understand why RAM pickups would be any different. You absolutely have some battery drain just from remote unlock, auto-unlock, maintaining memory settings, etc. Some component is always energized waiting for the app or the remote to send it signals. Certainly some vehicles might be more efficient or have larger batteries, but I haven't had a vehicle in years that survived a month of inactivity without negatively impacting the battery.

@Muddydogs I mean no offense with this comment and this may truly be your personal experience. That said, that assumption simply isn’t a blanket truth. This also is an isolated experience so it‘s hardly something that can be basis for the opposite to be true. I’ve had a few surgeries recently and literally haven’t driven my F150 in the past 3 months. I went through the hold the gas pedal to the floor so the vehicle won’t start but get some oil flowing routine several times (about 30 seconds of cranking) then fired it right up. The 4 year old battery was absolutely there.

No offense taken, my point is simply that there is absolutely drain on the battery when the vehicle is off. YMMV as to the amount of drain and the amount of battery capacity. The battery and draw have no idea what nameplate in on the vehicle so RAM trucks are no different.

I’ll have to check on that. I get the same readings off a battery tester and also the car’s onboard voltage reading. And I’ve always been able to start. I like your suggestion about the multimeter.

My battery drain experience comes from a 60 vehicle fleet of Chev, Ford and Ram pickups along with a few Jeeps and Explorers mixed in as well as a few misc sedans. Over the last 20 years Ford's will always be dead before the rest. Currently I have about 30 battery chargers in inventory so I can keep things charged over the winter. Don't get me started on ATV and motorcycle batterys.