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Post your favorite pic...it’s a show off thread.

beaST

beaST

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20210110_122049.jpg
2020 Street Pack wearing its "cheap" winter shoes 18x9 American Eagle 901 w/ 265/60R18 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac
 

dawnpatrol

dawnpatrol

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My wife’s ST
  • Full Front Xpel Paint Protection
  • Gloss Black C-Pillar Vinyl Wrap
  • Color Keyed Badging (Ford/ ST)
  • Husky Liners
  • Billet Pedal Covers
  • Rear Wiper Delete
  • Black Lug Nuts
  • Explorer Lettering Rockers Expolrer ST #1.jpg Expolrer ST #4.jpg Expolrer ST #5.jpg Expolrer ST #7.jpg Expolrer ST #8.jpg
 

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UNBROKEN

UNBROKEN

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ThwopKing said:
+40 offset...ok cool....I was told before 32-37 or something like that was the go to...any issues with the +40?
Click to expand...
They will be inset quite a bit. If you want flush you need to be at +30. +35 is inset just shy of 1/4”. +40…just shy of 1/2”
 

B

Blown F-150

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UNBROKEN said:
They will be inset quite a bit. If you want flush you need to be at +30. +35 is inset just shy of 1/4”. +40…just shy of 1/2”
Click to expand...
I'll post a pic after the alignment today, there isn't that much inset at all, IMO. They are farther out than the stockers for sure. Having said that, I will probably put in 6mm spacers to bring the rear out to the same track as the fronts.

It's all personal preference I guess, but I didn't want flush with the top of the wheel wells, as the tires would stick out too much from the bottom of the wheel wells.
 

OP
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Blown F-150 said:
I'll post a pic after the alignment today, there isn't that much inset at all, IMO. They are farther out than the stockers for sure. Having said that, I will probably put in 6mm spacers to bring the rear out to the same track as the fronts.

It's all personal preference I guess, but I didn't want flush with the top of the wheel wells, as the tires would stick out too much from the bottom of the wheel wells.
Click to expand...
I’ve ran the math extensively…I know how they fit without seeing them. I’m just telling the other guy what to expect.
And if you don’t want to run spacers out back have your alignment shop set the rear camber at -.5* then they will match the front.
 

ThwopKing

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Cool thanks guys...My shop is My alignment shop so that small adjustment wouldn't be an issue lol. I just know in that 20in size there several wheels technically made for mustangs that come in +40, that I really like and some random 22's that are close to the +40.
 

OP
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ThwopKing said:
Cool thanks guys...My shop is My alignment shop so that small adjustment wouldn't be an issue lol. I just know in that 20in size there several wheels technically made for mustangs that come in +40, that I really like and some random 22's that are close to the +40.
Click to expand...
I have a local shop I’ve used for years and know the owner well so he lets me go in and figure my own crap out. lol
The top of the rear wheels is about 1/4” further in with the oem camber setting…moving it out to -.5* erases that.
 

B

Blown F-150

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UNBROKEN said:
I’ve ran the math extensively…I know how they fit without seeing them. I’m just telling the other guy what to expect.
And if you don’t want to run spacers out back have your alignment shop set the rear camber at -.5* then they will match the front.
Click to expand...


Showing what to expect. Sometimes a visual is easier.

You’re 100% right on the -.5*. This is in Ford Spec at -1.25* and looks wonky.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

T

TMac

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It's very hard to tell from those pics, although it does look like there is some negative camber there. However, if you take some of it out, I'm trying to understand the reason- just the looks? Won't handling be affected? If you change the camber on wider rims/tires won't you run into issues with rub in the fenderwells on the the outboard side? Just trying to understand the recommendation.
 

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TMac said:
It's very hard to tell from those pics, although it does look like there is some negative camber there. However, if you take some of it out, I'm trying to understand the reason- just the looks? Won't handling be affected? If you change the camber on wider rims/tires won't you run into issues with rub in the fenderwells on the the outboard side? Just trying to understand the recommendation.
Click to expand...
Hasn’t affected handling making such a small change and zero rubbing issues. I wouldn’t recommend it if there were issues. Many people have used my rear camber number to avoid using spacers.
 

B

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TMac said:
It's very hard to tell from those pics, although it does look like there is some negative camber there. However, if you take some of it out, I'm trying to understand the reason- just the looks? Won't handling be affected? If you change the camber on wider rims/tires won't you run into issues with rub in the fenderwells on the the outboard side? Just trying to understand the recommendation.
Click to expand...
There is a pretty wide range on the stock spec (the one I found anyway) for Camber. Yes, if you go too far out, it will impact hard cornering and could even lead to easier oversteer. But, knocking it closer to -.5* on a spec range of -.165 to 1.65m should be better looking IMO and less tire wear if you run unloaded most of the time.
 

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TMac

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Thanks for the feedback. I was just trying to figure out the reason as I was concerned with handling and outboard clearance. If neither are affected, that's good to know. Some of this information is so spread out I wonder if the moderator might see someway to curate this info with that from the wheel tire offset thread(s)?
 

T

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I imagine this ST saying "Luke, I am your father"...hoo-shoosh, hoo-shoosh, hoo-shoosh. (Fill in sound effects to your satisfaction)
 

F=MA

F=MA

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Wheels - 10.5x22 +30 BC Forged EH309 Gloss Black (maximum concavity BC Forged determines) with Tires - Pirelli Asimmetrico 305/35ZR22.
IMG_6121.JPG

IMG_0729.JPG
 

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