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Just installed a Whipple intercooler.

F=MA

F=MA

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#41
Bend the plastic slats and they can be removed. I left everything else (actuators, wiring as is and no codes). I do not need the rad shutters in south central Kansas as the winters are usually pretty mild. Along the Canadian border, where it gets so cold you actually need to block some airflow through the radiator to get the cars HVAC to warm up, then you may want to keep them. I just bagged them up in a ziplok bag for future determination.
 

twin001

twin001

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I’m thinking of trying to remove the slats without removing the bumper. So if you just bend in the middle they pop out?
 

F=MA

F=MA

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I took the shutters off when the entire unit was removed and sitting on the floor. It is the piece with the aluminum crash bar attached upper right in photo. Bend the plastic slats and they can be removed. Also sprayed the intercooler flat black before installing so I didn't see silver through the grill.

IMG_6667.JPG
 

GearHead_1

GearHead_1

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I think that's a good move too. I'd rather not see silver behind the grill. Worse than that is seeing the manufacturer's name sitting back there highlighted. No doubt this is saying something about my generation. If I can improve something or make it faster, stronger, better, and not have the world know about it all the better.
 

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Tommyc

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I posted this in another whipple install thread but figured I would put it here as well.
OK Whipple is installed on my 2021! On mine the active shutter assembly was riveted on the bottom 5 areas where there were bolts on the 2020.That was the biggest PITA as I had to drill them out and put in dzus fasteners/ new push fasteners. Mine also did not have a washer house for front camera. Oh well hahaha. Test fit new intercooler before tightening up to make sure the aluminum is not touching the supplied brackets at the bottom. 10.0mm ratcheting wrench works well for the fender to bumper cover bolts and yes they are stubborn! Wheels off would be easier to visualize these bolts but I did not remove them. Not a super difficult task but allow at least 4 hours and use ziploc labeled bags for all parts. As far as performance I will check tomorrow. I needed a couple beers after that. 2 people will also help a lot.

Tommy
 

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RobHalo

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#46
Tommyc said:
I posted this in another whipple install thread but figured I would put it here as well.
OK Whipple is installed on my 2021! On mine the active shutter assembly was riveted on the bottom 5 areas where there were bolts on the 2020.That was the biggest PITA as I had to drill them out and put in dzus fasteners/ new push fasteners. Mine also did not have a washer house for front camera. Oh well hahaha. Test fit new intercooler before tightening up to make sure the aluminum is not touching the supplied brackets at the bottom. 10.0mm ratcheting wrench works well for the fender to bumper cover bolts and yes they are stubborn! Wheels off would be easier to visualize these bolts but I did not remove them. Not a super difficult task but allow at least 4 hours and use ziploc labeled bags for all parts. As far as performance I will check tomorrow. I needed a couple beers after that. 2 people will also help a lot.

Tommy
Click to expand...
All 21s have the rivets and removed that washer hose. No one has done new instructions for the 21s so it really confused me when I got to the rivets. But by that point you've come way too far to turn back so it's time to improvise.
 

Doubleajaybrock

Doubleajaybrock

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RobHalo said:
All 21s have the rivets and removed that washer hose. No one has done new instructions for the 21s so it really confused me when I got to the rivets. But by that point you've come way too far to turn back so it's time to improvise.
Click to expand...
Did you replace the rivets with new ones?
 

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Tommyc

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I did not. The 2 attachment point with the protrusions of the steel subframe I could access with 2 Dzuz fasteners which I had in my spare parts bin. The other 3 I just used plastic push retainers like those that are on the fender liner. Really the aluminum crash bar with it's 8, 13mm bolts holds it in place just fine and I have no rattles or motion of the assembly. There are also the 2 giant zip ties to keep it retained. I really do not understand Ford's think of this as to do any work on the condenser or radiator it must be removed adding more labor time.
1632831613497.png
 

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RobHalo

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Doubleajaybrock said:
Did you replace the rivets with new ones?
Click to expand...
They were larger than what I had on hand so I did not. I put in a couple bumper style plastic push fasteners. Tommy's fix is good, and as he said, there is a ton of other hardware securing that piece. The rivets seem unnecessary.
 

boosted_st

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Doubleajaybrock said:
Did you replace the rivets with new ones?
Click to expand...
I went with rivnuts as a replacement for the rivets. Figured this would make it easier to remove in the future if ever needed. I have a couple photos in this post (click).
 

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555race

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I deleted those fasteners after drilling the rivits. Seemed to make sense for an assembly line to ensure things stayed lined up. But when doing it manually, there is so much holding that all in place, especially the alum bumper brace piece. No way that coresupport moves with those 4 rivits omitted.
 

B

Blown F-150

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boosted_st said:
I went with rivnuts as a replacement for the rivets. Figured this would make it easier to remove in the future if ever needed. I have a couple photos in this post (click).
Click to expand...
I did the same. Makes things serviceable if needed in the future.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Doubleajaybrock

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boosted_st said:
I went with rivnuts as a replacement for the rivets. Figured this would make it easier to remove in the future if ever needed. I have a couple photos in this post (click).
Click to expand...
Ah yes, I know these. I know them as Nutserts and have these with a tool already from my Jeep days.
 

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Tommyc

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If anyone is confused by the youtube video or the instructions. The fender to front cowl (whole front end) bolts are located looking toward front of vehicle at the top when you pull back fender liner. Pull back fender liner by removing small plastic push pin retainers on the top by outer fender as well as mid placed one between fender and engine.. Look up and toward front of vehicle and you will see what is displayed on instructions. Maybe I am not the only one that said where the F is that?

Tommy
 

CH46E

CH46E

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Tommyc said:
Just ordered one! Hope it helps in the South Florida heat! Thanks all.

Tommy
Click to expand...
Same here. I'm central FL east coast. (Merritt Island) I just ordered mine through Rare Fab. They are in S.FL. about a 2 hour drive from me. $400.00 to install the Whipple and a TurboSmart dual port BOV. I might go ahead and get the cooler bosh plugs done while it's there.
I'm just going to wait while they do the work. About 4 to 5 hours.
 

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Tommyc

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Awesome! If you are not tuned the plugs are probably not needed but probably a good safety step. If you have a late 21 build check to see if the original BOV/recirculating valve is actually in existence. There are some other threads about this. Weird I know.

Tommy
 

CH46E

CH46E

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Tommyc said:
Awesome! If you are not tuned the plugs are probably not needed but probably a good safety step. If you have a late 21 build check to see if the original BOV/recirculating valve is actually in existence. There are some other threads about this. Weird I know.

Tommy
Click to expand...
I did see some threads about the bov. Mine is a 2020. The plugs are just cheap insurance for when I do get it tuned.
 

M

MangoMan17

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Hey guys, I did get Intercooler installed. I have also installed KN filter. But with NO ECU tuning.

I get good MPG since i installed it, but in lower RPMs i feel low on power. Previously i used to get nice punchy feel on lower RPMs, but not anymore. It has definitely improved power in higher RPMs but at low there is little lag in the turbo.

Is it expected with intercooler with NO ECU tune?
 

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