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14 Speaker B&O front door rattle, vibration , ...not sure what to call it

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#1
it seems on certain song the midrange speakers on the doors rattle or make a weird vibration sound....Sometimes sounds like they are blown. When pressing on the grill when it happens seems to almost quiet it down. So I'm curious if anyone else noticed this? if there is a fix?
 

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#2
Look up my sound deadening thread. There’s about 100 things in each door that vibrate, rattle, buzz or just generally makes useless noises because of the way the door panels are built. The biggest offender is the lock rod where it comes through the top of the door and it’s trim piece. CLD, butyl rope and Tessa tape along with a few hours of your time can fix it.
Mine don’t make a single sound now…and I run an 8” midbass in the doors with a ton of power. I actually had to remove the outer door cladding and deaden that too it was buzzing so bad.
 

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Thread Starter #3
I actually think my mid range speakers are bad.....they make a horrible buzzing sound that is even more prominent since purchase
 

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#4
I actually think my mid range speakers are bad.....they make a horrible buzzing sound that is even more prominent since purchase
99% chance it’s the door panels. They’re built horribly.
 

OP
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Thread Starter #5
99% chance it’s the door panels. They’re built horribly.
Even with the volume at 8 it’s very audible buzzing, it’s coming directly from the mids. I’m going to try to attach a sound clip in a few. Let me know what you think then if you would.
 

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Thread Starter #6
It will not let me attach a mp3 or mov file....not sure what type of file it needs to be
 

SFD295

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#7
Mine do the same. Mid range speakers in the door make horrible vibration on certain tracks. It's most prominent with speech, like with podcasts or just general talking. I think it gets drowned out with music. I'm debating taking the door apart to do the vibration damping or even change the speakers out but it's a daunting task to say the least.

Edit: Forgot to add that when it starts doing the vibration I can slap the speaker grille and it often gets better. I don't notice any sound level difference like another post said.
 

Sgt1411

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Law Enforcement
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BC&AZ
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2021 ST
#8
Look up my sound deadening thread. There’s about 100 things in each door that vibrate, rattle, buzz or just generally makes useless noises because of the way the door panels are built. The biggest offender is the lock rod where it comes through the top of the door and it’s trim piece. CLD, butyl rope and Tessa tape along with a few hours of your time can fix it.
Mine don’t make a single sound now…and I run an 8” midbass in the doors with a ton of power. I actually had to remove the outer door cladding and deaden that too it was buzzing so bad.
I just went back and read your sound deadening thread, that's very impressive. I wish I had the skill and ability to do that kind of work.

The amount of deadoning materila and the time spent on all the panels is amazing.

I noticed Ford has some silver sound deadening materials on the floorboards under the carpet, my question is would it be worthwhile to just do the front doors to improve speaker performance or is that just too little of and area to make a difference?
 

UNBROKEN

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#9
I just went back and read your sound deadening thread, that's very impressive. I wish I had the skill and ability to do that kind of work.

The amount of deadoning materila and the time spent on all the panels is amazing.

I noticed Ford has some silver sound deadening materials on the floorboards under the carpet, my question is would it be worthwhile to just do the front doors to improve speaker performance or is that just too little of and area to make a difference?
I think any treatments will help but if I had to choose I’d focus on the door panels themselves. Take one off and just tap on it…you’ll hear the various things that rattle. A roll of 3M Windo Weld butyl rope from the auto part store, some cheap 80mil Noico CLD and a roll of Tesa tape from eBay will probably come in around 100 bucks and go a LONG way to quieten everything down. Pull the speakers out and put some CLD wherever you can reach on the outer door skin then a few pieces on the door panel around the speaker. Use the butyl rope where anything rattles…like around clips, where the door panel parts meet each other, etc. Wrap things like plugs, bare wires and the door lock rods with Tesa tape to decouple them from the things they rattle against. If it’s in your budget after that get either a roll of CCF like Dynaliner or some 1” 3M Thinsulate to completely decouple the door panel from the door itself. The difference will be amazing for a few hours work that anyone can do. It’s tedious…but definitely not hard.
Here’s an example of just one panel in my rear console…with CLD but before I wrapped the base of the clips in butyl rope.
 

Sgt1411

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#10
Thanks.......Im on it.....that is a great solution.
 

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Location
MN
Vehicle
2020 Explorer ST
#11
I had this same situation on my 2020 - erratic functionality, buzzing, muffled audio, etc. Took the panel off and cleaned the connectors - no more buzzing or blown speaker sounds.
 

UNBROKEN

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#12
I had this same situation on my 2020 - erratic functionality, buzzing, muffled audio, etc. Took the panel off and cleaned the connectors - no more buzzing or blown speaker sounds.
What really happened is whatever was positioned to make the noise you were hearing got moved enough to correct itself when you R&R’d the panel. You got lucky.
 

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Location
MN
Vehicle
2020 Explorer ST
#13
Yeah, that may very well be the case. My situation sounded much more electrical in nature, but with these panels, it could be just about anything (as you know better than most)
 

rovaman

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Location
canada
Vehicle
ford st
#14
Good day evryone Sorry for my English)) Can you tell me how to extract a clean signal from the head unit (optical or coaxial). I did my best to soundproof the explorer) I have a signal using the Bluetooth AptX HD protocol, but I wanted to remove the signal from the head unit without a standard amplifier. I had to take the signal after the standard amplifier, then I connected the D class processor amplifier for 8 channels and then everything else. How to get rid of the standard amplifier in this circuit?In our country, the explorer 2020 has not yet been studied)))
 

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UNBROKEN

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#15
Good day evryone Sorry for my English)) Can you tell me how to extract a clean signal from the head unit (optical or coaxial). I did my best to soundproof the explorer) I have a signal using the Bluetooth AptX HD protocol, but I wanted to remove the signal from the head unit without a standard amplifier. I had to take the signal after the standard amplifier, then I connected the D class processor amplifier for 8 channels and then everything else. How to get rid of the standard amplifier in this circuit?In our country, the explorer 2020 has not yet been studied)))
If you mean you want to eliminate to oem
processing completely and use optical into your dsp/amp then the Nav TV Zen A2B is your best bet.
 

rovaman

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canada
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ford st
#16
Thank you! Yes, this is really a great option. it collects the signal in a heap after the head unit and distributes it into 6 or 12 channels to connect to the processor, right? and regular amplifier I can throw away))? did I understand correctly? and yet it is a pity that there is no optical or RCA outputs from the head. Now this is the biggest task - getting a clean signal from the head units of modern cars..
 

UNBROKEN

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#17
Thank you! Yes, this is really a great option. it collects the signal in a heap after the head unit and distributes it into 6 or 12 channels to connect to the processor, right? and regular amplifier I can throw away))? did I understand correctly? and yet it is a pity that there is no optical or RCA outputs from the head. Now this is the biggest task - getting a clean signal from the head units of modern cars..
The A2B completely eliminates the oem amp and all of its processing. You’ll have a digital signal from the HU to your DSP.
 

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