H&R Lowering Spring Step-by-Srep Install Video

Here you go!!!

For the rear, remove the long through bolt on the outside of the UCA, unbolt the lower shock bolt and sway bar end link then pry down on the LCA with a long pry bar...pop the oem spring out then pop the new one in. That’s all it takes.

you need to loosen everything otherwise you will bind up and put stress on the bushings.

The LCA is designed to move up and down, obviously. You’re not moving it anywhere it’s not already moving while you drive. I’m just saying there’s a slightly easier way of doing it without removing the entire shock or binding any bushings.
I’ve been doing this for a long time...just passing on an easier option.

yes i understand that. BUT, there should be no pre-tension on the bushings when the vehicle is at rest.

So loosen them up and then retorque. This isn’t rocket science. All I tried to do is tell people a way to install the springs easier and without a coil compressor. It’s not needed on the rear.

First off, a big THANK YOU to FatGuy and Unbroken for the video and the tips. Installed Steeda springs today and things went smoothly thanks to you guys.

Did the fronts the way I normally do. I guessed that the preload wasn't too bad so did not use spring compressors to disassemble the struts and just loosen the top nut with the impact wrench after wrapping in a blanket. It jumped only about 6" or so. Obviously don't do it this way if you aren't comfortable with it or how to avoid injury. I was hoping the lowering springs were short enough that I could assemble to strut without the compressors, but the Steeda's definitely are not.

The rears, I did it as Unbroken suggested. I've never done a car with the rear suspension like this Ford's so I appreciate Unbroken sharing his way--the Steeda instructions talk about dropping the rear subframe but are not very detailed in how to do it. I think it is best to do the rears in this order after backend is on jackstands: Detach swar bar end link on both sides and rotate sway bar out of the way. Remove shock entirely (upper bolts then lower). Jack up the knuckle from the lower shock attachment (mainly because the UCA want so sit up higher). Remove the long bolt that joins the knuckle to the upper control bolt. The knuckle should drop low quite readily after the jack is released. I then used a cheapie but stout Harbor Freight 30" pry bar to work the bottom of the OEM spring out. Once the spring is almost out, a pair of large angled pliers finished the job. The Steeda springs went in quite easily with just some light leverage on the lower spring perch. Then just reinstall everything in reverse. If you do not not jack the knuckle (so the hole approximates the UCA hole) and insert the knuckle-UCA bolt next, it will be extremely difficult to insert it. Then lower the knuckle and reinsert and tighten the shock. When both sides are done, secure both sway bar endlinks. The rears took about an hour while the fronts took me 2 hours.

I saw some ford instructions that said to dispose of all nuts & bolts. did you do that? if so do you have part numbers and quantities? Really nice work on this video!

I'm going to revive this thread because I just finished installing Eibach lowering springs on my 2023 ST. This method is by far the one to use for the rear springs. Get a good 42" pry bar to make the job easy.

If you are installing springs, consider doing the RSB and/ or vertical links while you are in there. Wish I would have done them at the same time.

Great Thread!!! Thx!

Check this video out for the rear spring install. This is a much easier method.

Even easier is not to even mess with the subframe? You will need to pry out the stock springs but lowering springs go back in with just a nudge down on the knuckle.

I haven't used the method in the video and did my rear spring changes by prying them out. Just thought it was interesting that the springs just slide out by lowering the subframe.