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New Item: SPD cooler temp thermostat kits
- Thread starter ron@whooshmotorsports
- Start date
The $40 means nothing to me as well, but to plenty it does. I had been selling a similar thermostat to the Mustang Cobra crowd for years: it was only about $25 less but hundreds of them moved easily. Most guys that turn their own wrenches dig bargains.
This particular one also fits the Coyote engine, and I had sold lots of them as well. When you buy some of the aftermarket off-the-shelf thermostats (like ones that many think are the "right part"), especially with lower temperatures, they are more often than not shorter than the OE length. With that, they don't seat properly and the system doesn't function as it is supposed to do. This is why I sold another version to the Cobra guys since the MotoRad 170° (off-the-shelf) was not the correct length. Could be exactly the case here...
Perfect example of why I sold my Cobra version that was an exact fit compared to another:
This particular one also fits the Coyote engine, and I had sold lots of them as well. When you buy some of the aftermarket off-the-shelf thermostats (like ones that many think are the "right part"), especially with lower temperatures, they are more often than not shorter than the OE length. With that, they don't seat properly and the system doesn't function as it is supposed to do. This is why I sold another version to the Cobra guys since the MotoRad 170° (off-the-shelf) was not the correct length. Could be exactly the case here...
Perfect example of why I sold my Cobra version that was an exact fit compared to another:
Don't need to: the thermostat I wrote about has the same dimensions as the OE Motorcraft RT1225. Again, has been used in the 5.0 Coyote for years and is an exact fit. Can't say the same about the one at the top of this thread, but you'll find out soon enough.
From my other site: http://www.termi-stat.com/coyote.htm
From my other site: http://www.termi-stat.com/coyote.htm
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Thread Starter
#11
Just finished up this install. Not too bad but I was puckering when i put that one bolt that connects the airbox mount to the engine back in. That sucker is a little deep and I hate having to drop the valance anytime I drop a bolt through the engine bay. It was only 6 bolts after removing the airbox. Not bad at all.
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The thermostat regulates the engine's cooant temperature by opening (letting coolant through the radiator) and closing (keeping coolant in the block). Some people believe a lower temp thermostat allows the engine to have a bit more performance. I'm not a believer that there's any real performance benefit. Perhaps on older engines with coolant running through the intake manifold for de-icing a lower temp thermostat might have lowered intake manifold temps, but not on a modern direct injected vehicle.
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I don’t know if it plays with the 3.0, however in playing with my Gen1 3.5 I found the 170 yielded no 1/4 time or Dyno results at a 500whp mark. It was actually a detriment in winters up here and I ended up settling on 180 degree motocraft thermostat. Stock was 195 on my truck. It was mainly for towing though and starting at a lower temp before going up a hill.
I see the ST seems to have a 180 degree stat from the factory like some newer 5.0’s and 3.5’s depending on the vehicle. I don’t see any reason to chance it, however if anyone can post up some data, I would be happy to see it.
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I see the ST seems to have a 180 degree stat from the factory like some newer 5.0’s and 3.5’s depending on the vehicle. I don’t see any reason to chance it, however if anyone can post up some data, I would be happy to see it.
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This is one of those things where some "old hot rodding" advice that might have meant something due to completely different engine parameters might have yielded gains, but no longer. Do you really think the engineers who specialize in selecting the coolant temps best for the engine went out of their way to select something inappropriate? There is another consideration- using too low a temp may cause the ECU to determine the engine isn't completely warmed up. The ECU uses coolant temp as a modifier to injector duty cycle, resulting in a richer mixture at all times. In the worst case, you may not enter "closed loop" mode. Meaning you will get much worse MPG.
I agree that often people try to apply old methods to new platforms. Heck, with the SHO’s and F150’s folks were trying to say that a 160* stat would even be better, lol.
Having said that, with the way these are calibrated, there isn’t really any risk around them “being too cold” by dropping 10*. Your not going to see much affect around town with the lower t-stat anyway, unless you adjust the fan.
You also don’t want to run a motor so cool that the oil doesn’t get above 215* on a pretty regular basis. If you’re oil doesn’t get hot enough, you’re not gonna burn off fuel which will impact the ability for the oil to protect.
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Having said that, with the way these are calibrated, there isn’t really any risk around them “being too cold” by dropping 10*. Your not going to see much affect around town with the lower t-stat anyway, unless you adjust the fan.
You also don’t want to run a motor so cool that the oil doesn’t get above 215* on a pretty regular basis. If you’re oil doesn’t get hot enough, you’re not gonna burn off fuel which will impact the ability for the oil to protect.
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I’m with Tmac and Boost. A triumph of marketing and voodoo over logic. Does anybody really believe that a thermostat alone will give you “better performance?” One thing for sure, the heater will be 10 degrees colder in the winter…
Water vapour needs heat to get it out of the engine or you start seeing sludge building on the oil cap.
How many times in the life of a car, do you change thermostats?
If anyone can provide numbers to back up this thermo. assertion, bring ‘em on.
Water vapour needs heat to get it out of the engine or you start seeing sludge building on the oil cap.
How many times in the life of a car, do you change thermostats?
If anyone can provide numbers to back up this thermo. assertion, bring ‘em on.
Nobody can...
MAYBE...MAYBE before the engine reaches full operating temp you might see SOMETHING, but a vehicles complete cooling system is designed for a specific overall operating temp... When a thermostat opens and everything equalizes the vehicle cooling system will reach that temp.
Lower temp thermostats are a big thing in the Corvette world(or where a few years ago at least)... I never believed in them... Other people do, although when I ask "whats your car cruise down the highway at" the answer is almost always within 5 degrees of what my car with a factory thermostat ran down the highway at.
You would gain more cooling ability by running a 25% anti-freeze, 75% water mix with a bottle of some type of coolant booster(water wetter, amsoil coolant boost, etc...) in it, although in places where you see lots of cold weather, thats not really a recommended mix and you need to change it out every 2-3 years vs. 5 years for a 50/50 mix. Some new cars are now coming with like a 40/60 mix.
MAYBE...MAYBE before the engine reaches full operating temp you might see SOMETHING, but a vehicles complete cooling system is designed for a specific overall operating temp... When a thermostat opens and everything equalizes the vehicle cooling system will reach that temp.
Lower temp thermostats are a big thing in the Corvette world(or where a few years ago at least)... I never believed in them... Other people do, although when I ask "whats your car cruise down the highway at" the answer is almost always within 5 degrees of what my car with a factory thermostat ran down the highway at.
You would gain more cooling ability by running a 25% anti-freeze, 75% water mix with a bottle of some type of coolant booster(water wetter, amsoil coolant boost, etc...) in it, although in places where you see lots of cold weather, thats not really a recommended mix and you need to change it out every 2-3 years vs. 5 years for a 50/50 mix. Some new cars are now coming with like a 40/60 mix.
