Focal, Mosconi, Illusion and Helix build

UNBROKEN · Apr 6, 2023

Stick fab done and ready for filler tomorrow.

UNBROKEN · Apr 8, 2023

Rear pods are done. I’ll get them installed tomorrow.

UNBROKEN · Apr 8, 2023

Baked with a space heater for a few hours to cure the paint and I decided to slap them in to get a look. I’ll pull them out tomorrow to run the wires and put in the rest of the screws then.
To be honest…I don’t love the shape. It’s either this or fire them down into the seat backs though….and I can’t see them from the front seat anyway so hopefully they’ll just be out of sight / out of mind.

GearHead_1 · Apr 8, 2023

Not bad at all, you won't be stepping on them.

Lightning Struck · Apr 17, 2023

Won't need much for time delay.

UNBROKEN · Apr 17, 2023

Lightning Struck said:

20ms on the rears.

Lightning Struck · Apr 18, 2023

How's that sound? I would think that would be closer to 26ms compared to most sedans running their differential rear fill in the rear doors(at 20ms). That's figuring that your rear pods are roughly 8 ft from MLP in comparison to about 2-3ft in a rear door.

UNBROKEN · Apr 18, 2023

Lightning Struck said:

There’s a long way to go with dialing it in and I haven’t had a lot of free time to play with it. I was reading some stuff last night that showed great results down around 12-13ms so now I have even more things to consider. Honestly…I think I’m gonna run up to MTI and plug the JL Max into it and dial it in with that. It’s so much easier when you can see all that info.

bavarianblessed · Aug 21, 2023

UNBROKEN said:

I noticed you didn't run a ground to the rear distribution but have a ground running through the firewall. Is that just for additional chassis grounding to match the positive lead or did you run it to the back after the fact?

UNBROKEN · Aug 21, 2023

It runs all the way to the back.
The blocks are fed from the battery in the front and also wired for the power supply from the rear.

bavarianblessed · Aug 21, 2023

UNBROKEN said:

Nice, I always do the same. So many people try to argue with that logic as if a modern unibody can provide the same low-impedance and current capable connection.

UNBROKEN · Aug 21, 2023

bavarianblessed said:

There’s more glue than welds in this car I think. I couldn’t picture a scenario where a straight body ground would suffice.

spike5150 · Apr 28, 2024

UNBROKEN said:

Would you mind sharing how you got the wires into the doors? Did you just fish them through the stock conduits? Just a regular fish tape?

For the midranges did you have to hack into the black plastic in the door frame for depth clearance?

Thanks!

UNBROKEN · Apr 28, 2024

Yea I just fished one wire at a time through. It definitely sucked…probably the worst part of the whole build.
I think I did clearance being the mids a little bit…I still had room to get a deflex pad behind them though.
Be aware that using all the factory door locations you will be able to get it tonally great but if you’re after imaging and staging it just won’t pull it off very well. The oem mid and tweeter locations fight you pretty hard.

spike5150 · Apr 29, 2024

Thanks - I was afraid of that. I’m just looking for louder, cleaner and tighter sound. Not looking for competition grade.

Thanks for taking the time to document your install. It’s been extremely helpful!

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