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Lowering Springs Pros and Cons

BrooseDaMoose

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#61
I did do some research on this and saw that some people had trouble with shops being able to do an alignment. Something about the top bolt. I didn’t find a solution so that’s why I asked about it.


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BrooseDaMoose

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UNBROKEN said:
Those non-splined bolts don’t allow any appreciable adjustment. Tried that a long time ago. Easiest, cheapest way is to just slot the upper holes in the strut a bit with a carbide bit. I’m not a fan of camber bolts but I hear those exist as well. Most cars will sit -.8 to -1° without anything being done which is fine.
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Is that after installing the springs or the best it can be after an alignment?


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UNBROKEN

UNBROKEN

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#63
BrooseDaMoose said:
I did do some research on this and saw that some people had trouble with shops being able to do an alignment. Something about the top bolt. I didn’t find a solution so that’s why I asked about it.


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Click to expand...
That’s a shop issue…not a car issue.
 

UNBROKEN

UNBROKEN

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#64
BrooseDaMoose said:
Is that after installing the springs or the best it can be after an alignment?


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Click to expand...
That’s the range they generally fall in after springs and it’s perfectly within spec.
 

BrooseDaMoose

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#65
UNBROKEN said:
That’s the range they generally fall in after springs and it’s perfectly within spec.
Click to expand...
Ok, thank you sir!


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V

viking

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#66
UNBROKEN said:
That’s the range they generally fall in after springs and it’s perfectly within spec.
Click to expand...
However If I remember some post you made a while back that if one can find a reputable tech the rears can be adjusted to -.5 without any modification to the upper holes by just loosening and re-tightening them? And that will allow the rears to sit pretty damn flush. Do I remember that correctly or did I make that shit up?
 

UNBROKEN

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To get to -.5 you’ll have to grind the slots in the frame. I’ve seen as much as -.8 without touching anything.
 

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viking

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UNBROKEN said:
To get to -.5 you’ll have to grind the slots in the frame. I’ve seen as much as -.8 without touching anything.
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I swore you mentioned -.5 rear camber as I wrote it down back when I first started lurking on this forum. Just found it in your build thread post #74 back in 2020. Not calling you out. Just trying to do my homework so I'm fully armed when I talk and instruct the alignment shop. Going to be installing my lowering springs soon and then I want to be certain what can/cannot be done adjustment wise when I go in for alignment
 

UNBROKEN

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viking said:
I swore you mentioned -.5 rear camber as I wrote it down back when I first started lurking on this forum. Just found it in your build thread post #74 back in 2020. Not calling you out. Just trying to do my homework so I'm fully armed when I talk and instruct the alignment shop. Going to be installing my lowering springs soon and then I want to be certain what can/cannot be done adjustment wise when I go in for alignment
Click to expand...
If you look around at other suspension posts back then you’ll see me talking about grinding the frame slots too. I also ground them some more a week or so ago to do some experimenting. I can get to +1° rear camber now.
 

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viking

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UNBROKEN said:
If you look around at other suspension posts back then you’ll see me talking about grinding the frame slots too. I also ground them some more a week or so ago to do some experimenting. I can get to +1° rear camber now.
Click to expand...
Gotcha - Thanks. I didn't realize you had modified the slots then at that time also. Just want to know what can be accomplished by a capable tech. So anything more than -.8 has to have enlarged slots.
 

UNBROKEN

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viking said:
Gotcha - Thanks. I didn't realize you had modified the slots then at that time also. Just want to know what can be accomplished by a capable tech. So anything more than -.8 has to have enlarged slots.
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99% of cars are gonna be maxed out in the -1° range or a hair more. That -.8° is the most I’ve ever seen posted and just a weird car or a fluke reading. -1° is fine…the front will be right around there too since it’s not adjustable without extra parts or my go-to…slotting the upper hole in the strut body. I’ll be doing that when I swap shocks and struts before long.
 

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If you go to a shop, just tell them the inside upper control arm bolts have adjustment. It is a mild pita to reach them.

I went to get mine done after Ford dealer failed miserable and I put wheels and tires on. At first he said no go. Then I told him about the bolts. He called over the old timer alignment guy and they had no trouble. Only problem was both guys couldn’t hold parts and see the alignment gauge so I took one for the team and read off readings


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Ok so, dumb question here — I’m on pavement 99.9% of the time, but I theoretically would still like to be able to drive on national forest fire roads. They’re basically just dirt and gravel with some huge ruts in certain spots. Would the Steeda springs make the Explorer a pavement only princess?

I have seen tiny shit sedans on these fire roads so I know the answer. Just looking for someone to say that they’ve driven off pavement since lowering
 

SimonsGTS

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ConspicuousConsumption said:
Ok so, dumb question here — I’m on pavement 99.9% of the time, but I theoretically would still like to be able to drive on national forest fire roads. They’re basically just dirt and gravel with some huge ruts in certain spots. Would the Steeda springs make the Explorer a pavement only princess?

I have seen tiny shit sedans on these fire roads so I know the answer. Just looking for someone to say that they’ve driven off pavement since lowering
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I had no issues driving to my mother's house on a 5 mile dirt road in Colorado, including a couple of cattle guards, I'm using H&R springs.
 

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ConspicuousConsumption

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SimonsGTS said:
I had no issues driving to my mother's house on a 5 mile dirt road in Colorado, including a couple of cattle guards, I'm using H&R springs.
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thanks man. Sounds like a cool location too!
 

SimonsGTS

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ConspicuousConsumption said:
thanks man. Sounds like a cool location too!
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No probs! Yes their place is beautiful, just outside of Salida with some acres on the side of a mountain.
 

Green S/T

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Hello all, new here with a question or two. Just picked up a 23 S/T and I want to bring the rear down some and still ride well whereas it is a daily driver. I’ve read through all the replies in the thread here and seems like the H&R are the choice for comfort, but believe I read that it brings the rear down a lot. Also can you retain factory shocks or will they need replacing as well? Anyone here from Chicago, Northwest Indiana area that deals with a good suspension shop that can do the job correct?
 

2020FordRaptor

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#78
Green S/T said:
Hello all, new here with a question or two. Just picked up a 23 S/T and I want to bring the rear down some and still ride well whereas it is a daily driver. I’ve read through all the replies in the thread here and seems like the H&R are the choice for comfort, but believe I read that it brings the rear down a lot. Also can you retain factory shocks or will they need replacing as well? Anyone here from Chicago, Northwest Indiana area that deals with a good suspension shop that can do the job correct?
Click to expand...
H&Rs will level the car out so yes it will bring down the rear a bit. Unless you are heavy towing there isn’t a reason to be concerned about the “rake”. The shocks can be retained, and also note there are no other options anyway.
 

Green S/T

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2020FordRaptor said:
H&Rs will level the car out so yes it will bring down the rear a bit. Unless you are heavy towing there isn’t a reason to be concerned about the “rake”. The shocks can be retained, and also note there are no other options anyway.
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I’m all ears for other options as well.
 

2020FordRaptor

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Green S/T said:
I’m all ears for other options as well.
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H&R and Lethal are the best options if you don’t heavy tow. Steeds keeps the rake so better for towing.
 

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