Time for a new pinned post so we can get rid of some others! Here is a list of common mistakes and issues found on this platform!
- Oil pressure drop.
- If your engine is low on oil, you will experience an oil pressure drop on a hard launch. The lower the oil the worse the drop is the longer it lasts. It can even get low enough that hard acceleration from roll will cause the oil pressure drop. Like most performance applications when you start doing mods you need to enhance your regular maintenance plans, just being in the recommend range is not good enough. Your oil needs to filled to very top mark and even up to ½ qt above full if you plan to race and do a lot of lunches. All turbo engines burn some amount of oil, so the level needs to be monitored and topped off. Failure to do this will cause bearing failure. There have been several engines on here lost to oil levels, not even on the dipstick.
- Spark plugs.
- There is a load of misinformation floating around about spark plugs. 6510s (LTR7IX-11) are not the spark plug to use in your EcoBoost. I get it, other tuners recommend them, but they are not right for the application. Do they work? Yes, they do, but this is what happens. Plugs will go in gapped at .031. After a few thousand miles you will start getting some spark blow out. Then you will pull the plugs and find out the gap opened up to .038 or some other large number! This will happen every time, the cylinder pressure and firing temperature of the Ecoboost is just way to hot and will cause the strap to open up towards its original position! Some people are doing plugs after 5-10k miles because they are "bad". That's not the issue. The plug isn't bad at all the gap is just wrong. 6510s come out of the box gapped at .044 even and even NGK tells you not to re-gap them more than .010 whereas most Ecoboost applications need to be gapped at .028 max.
- The following options are what we at ZFG Racing recommend in order the order that we prefer.
- NGK 95605
- NGK 95822
- Bosch 96315
- Low Transmission fluid level and excess wheel spin/hop causing a bad 1-2 shift.
- As the weather has gotten cooler, you will make more power and have less traction. There are 2 main things that cause the ST to nose over on the 1-2 shift.
- Most of the time, especially lately this has been to blame. Low transmission fluid will cause the pick to suck air on a hard launch. This will cause a failed 1-2 shift. It will hit the rev limiter and sit there until enough pressure builds to make the gear exchange. Like most performance applications when you start doing mods you need to enhance your regular maintenance plans, just being in the recommend range is not good enough. You need to be at the top of the range, or slightly over full. There are also options for aftermarket transmission oil plans.
- Excessive wheel spin and or hop can cause you to hit the soft rev limiter on the 1-2 shift. If that happens the shift will still be complete, but all the boosts will be pull and it will ramp back in over the next few seconds. Lowering the shift point or raising the rev limiter are options, but if the wheel spin/hop is bad enough that it causes this issues, completing the 1-2 has a high likelihood of breaking something like a drive shaft or axle.
- As the weather has gotten cooler, you will make more power and have less traction. There are 2 main things that cause the ST to nose over on the 1-2 shift.
- Mods that require tune changes
- When you are adding bolt on's to your ST there is a few things that you should have a specific tune for BEFORE you can start the truck back up. Those items include but are not limited to, HPFP, and injectors, upgraded turbos. Everything else if you ask, you will probably get a response of "use the tune you currently have to log a 3rd or 4th gear pull from 2500-6000 rpm and note the changes when submitting, tunes will be adjusted if needed".
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They are not listed as compatible because they are not stock replacements they are one heat range colder than stock. 
