Adding Sub Woofer

It is mounted on the back of the subwoofer box.

It sure is I'm an idiot thanks.

I knew someone would step in with some pics !!! Now there's some base for you !!!

I recently went down this road for the same reason you noted. Be prepared to invest a lot more time and money than it took to add the sub. The A2B converter will cost >$500 and force you to buy another amp with enough channels to drive however many speakers you want to keep alive. Not sure what you ran initially for power, but the increased demand to power that new amp may mean you are running new wire and distribution as well. I wouldn't expect the stock speakers to hold to any more power than the stock amp provides (1 of my mids was bad pre-upgrade), so plan to replace them too. If you did the tap for you sub, you noticed the factory wire is pathetically small, so you'll want to run that new, as well. I never had a DSP in any vehicle prior to this one, but I believe that is a must-have in this vehicle. The initial sound pre-tune was so disappointing, I felt I'd wasted so much time and money. But after spending the time with a calibrated mic, REW, and the DSP software, the system came alive and is miles ahead of the factory system. But before all of this, you will want to put some work into sound deadening so you get the most out of the equipment.

There are some good build threads here (@UNBROKEN) and on DIYMA (BobTheBirdTurd) for reference. I went with way less costly equipment than others, but I have no plans to compete like those guys.

My system started with a JL 12TW3 on a Rockford T750X1bd on an LOC. I replaced the factory amp with a Zen A2B and Arc Audio Blackbird. The front mids and tweets were replaced with Hertz Mille Pro (I know, there are better options available). The front woofers were swapped for Morel MSW-265 9" speakers. Adapter plates were needed for the mids and woofers. I kept the back door speakers stock, but keep them faded off. The center and rear pillar speakers are disconnected. The factory sub & amp were removed to make space for the new electronics. Oh yeah, and lots of Resonix CLD and Thinsulate was applied.

Question , did you have to unhook the factory sub and just not use the factory amp for the subs you added ???

I'd imagine most people disconnect the factory sub when using something aftermarket, but there is no technical reason you can't keep it connected and still feed the line converter. I had my front speakers tapped that way briefly in an attempt to get around the sub volume issue.

oh wow! I didnt know u could tap off the sub line wirh a LCi2 and still keep ur stock sub running and then just add a second sub. I see the reason not to keep it if its putting out a shit base . But if u wanted to have fuller base I guess u could do that. I never knew you could though. Good to know. I cant belive Q-logic or some one doesn't make an enclosure for a sub for us ! I had one in my dodge and it looked like part of the truck , hell ot even had drink hioders!!!

Don’t add a sub and keep the oem sub playing. There’s nothing about that that’s a good idea.

What about making the factory box a sealed enclosure with a properly matched and upgraded 8" driver that's tuned to a slightly higher frequency range than the 12" additional sub is?

Unbroken, I def would not do that but I am trying to learn all I can before I get anywhere.. I just wondered if it could be done and if people r doing it . My plan is basically what you told me was prob best for me , thats sound deadening and then change out the sub! Then I can go from there. I def want to add the new sub into the space where the old sub is , But that would prob mean I would have to move the amp or completely replace the amp ??

You could but there’s actually a lot of room back there once the oem enclosure is removed…I’d build a new enclosure for at least a 10 and put it in the same spot.

This! You can go bigger if you want as well. I put a 13 in mine with a custom fiberglass box. IMO a well powered 10 or 12 will sound much with the oem sub removed or not powered.


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I have a JL audio 10" with out the box, I cam make one out of plywood and fit it in. I would have to see how deep it is though. I bought it to put into the q logic box in my truck but I decided to do this first !!!

Interesting idea, but not sure I'm trying to get that involved. Once I get the panel off I'll measure the factory enclosure with the water method and see how limited my options are.