I've got a Check Engine Light

Thanks again for this, really helpful. I tackled this today using the same Dorman replacement, you can find them on ebay for around $50 -- PN# 994-073. Took me about 2 hours give or take. The tough part is getting the right angle on the back 2 connectors for sure, was definitely resting my body on the front strut bar as you need to get way up in there. Now that I know how exactly to get the connectors off (the green 'lock' one is a PITA), i could probably do it quicker.

- The key thing is that there is a 'perch' that the rear solenoid/valve rests on that prevents it from moving around. If you pull up at the rear of the purge assembly, you can detach it, so that the assembly can rotate freely, making it easier to get at and undo the 2 rear connections.
- If you want to attempt it without disconnecting the lines running across the top, after getting the 4 bolts out to loosen those metal brackets holding the lines, you need one hand on top to push the top green tab up and one hand going around bottom to push the bottom tab at the same time, while pushing down hard to back out the green 'lock washer' thing. You can practice on the front green 'lock washer' to get a feel for how it unlocks.
-If you have larger hands or are having trouble with the rear connections, you will probably need to disconnect the top coolant lines that are in the way (make sure to have a cup or something handy to catch the coolant that drains out). These connections can be undone with a flathead screwdriver to pry open the locking tabs. It will probably be much easier to undo the rear connections once those lines are out of the way.

Then I cleared the check engine codes with my tuner and it was gone. If you aren't mechanically inclined you could probably take it to a local guy for cheaper if you supply the part.

Great tip here, why spend $50 when you can get it for $25! Unfort missed this post

Thank you. I replaced my purge valve today and this helped greatly. Saved me $700, that was the quote from dealership. Definitely tight quarters on the back half of this part. You must remain calm and be patient. Thanks again

Excellent...
Same problem in my 2021 ST
Thank you!

Thanks everyone for this info. Keeping this in mind for the future as it seems ford likes to provide shotty parts on many of their newer models.

I replaced it… hasn’t fixed the code.

Have you used a scanner to reset the code or erase it? Also, it can take a few drive cycles to clear it if you do not use a scan tool to clear

I don’t have a scanner… I disconnected the battery. I heard that would clear it as well. No?

I’m not sure about that, drive it for a few miles and should clear. If you have a tuning device, HP Tuner or Ngauge ect you can clear diagnostic codes or just have advance auto clear it.

All that said assuming that was the only issue.

Thanks, I appreciate it

I believe the light will go off after three start, warm up, shut down, cool down cycles without the error occurring under normal conditions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I replaced my purge valve with an aftermarket brand and it failed 3-4 days later. I replaced with OEM part and solved my issue. Just sharing my experience here.

Code popped up this morning while heading to work, will be searching for a good deal on OEM part. Amazon reviews aren’t that great for the off brand ones. 40k on my 2020

Amazon part replacement worked fine for 30 days then failed again. Going to try the doorman or OEM part next.

You should have gone OEM from the start.

Same deal. Amazon part lasted 30 days. Submitted warranty claim to mfctr they ghosted me after initial response. Amazon agreed to take part back after some coercing. Trying the Dorman one today. Originally had P0496. On cheap part I have P0496 and P0456 after month of use.

I bought the OEM part and installed it myself. I had to support myself withe a step ladder for my feet, two pool noodles on top of the front brace and engine. So I was completely flat.

I agree, the rear green attachment is the hardest. I ended up disconnecting the part via a shorter tube to the right and above. It is only held in by a plastic U shaped thing and then you can kind of twist the part out. Once out it only took like 3 minutes to hook the new one up. Took it to Jiffy Lubem they reset the engine light and all has been great! Thanks for this thread! You saved me $1k!

Just to add to the knowledge base here...I just replaced this in my '21 ST an hour ago. One dealer had the part in stock for $160, the other local one had it for $106 so I went that route. The whole thing took me 15 minutes, and I'm not a gifted mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. I could probably do it in 3 minutes next time, now knowing how the green clip releases. As others have said, unclip the front green clip first to see how it works - that'll make getting the rear one unclipped much easier. Whatever you do, please don't pay a dealer $700-1000 for this!

All that said, I have no idea if this solved my P0496 code, as I haven't even started the car up since replacing the solenoid. I'll report back on that once I know.

I am replacing the purge valve and cannot seem to get the electrical plug to come off. This is the last piece since all of the green tab (3) parts were able to be removed.
Thanks