Alignment Specs (Camber)

I would check if the subframe was shifted in the incident, sometimes just loosening all for bolts will allow it to shift back into position. If both camber bolts are pushed to one side then the subframe has probably shifted from the impact. But from the alignment specs there may be additional damage too.

If they are trying to set the Camber with toe out of spec, I don't think it will work, I struggled aligning my ST because I was going out of order. It was only when I moved the upper control arm to the farthest outward position and ignored the Camber reading then set the toe, did the Camber fall into spec.

The sway bar should not affect the camber, or a long shot to say the least, even though it might be bent. The sway bar link should isolate it unless it is seriously out of whack.

I'd do as has been suggested and get it in the air, pull the tires, get a good light, and a micrometer, tape measure, and ruler, get under it, and start doing side-to-side comparisons.

If the only part that was bent was the one you replaced, all should be as it was before. Since it isn't, something else obviously must be bent or out of place. Look at it this way, it didn't need the camber-slot elongated before, so why does it now?

Look at the axle and see if the way it sits looks the same as the other side. Look at the way the subframe is positioned and any scrub marks from movement under the bolts. Look at the lower control arm bushing bolts, the angle of the ball joint studs, and on and on. Spend some time looking.

Even a qualified tech (assuming here he knows how to adjust the camber) can miss something that is only off tenths of an inch.

Thanks to everyone who’s responded. I spoke with the service manager this morning and there was an earlier miscommunication about what/where the tech was having an issue. Turns out the rear is fine and they know it can be adjusted back into spec. The issue is with the front camber on the driver’s side and they want to do some fabrication on both sides of the front that will allow them to have more range on the camber to the tune of $700 parts & labor. The service manager said that this is a known issue on this generation Explorer and the fabrication will make it like the fronts are on 2023 froward. For a known issue, this is the first I’ve heard of it and it makes me more puzzled as to what the real issue is as the front hadn’t had problems before but now does. Has anyone else ever encountered this problem or knows if a modification was done on the front suspension on the 2023 model that makes it different?

There is no “known issue” and 2023’s are identical to the older cars. Someone is feeding you a line of shit.

I'd get the heck out of that shop before they cut on your vehicle.
These guys know nothing.

Sounds like my “run away” instinct was accurate. So the only fabrication they were doing was the story of what needed to be done. Thanks!

Anyone know a decent alignment shop in the KC area?

I've read many posts saying they needed to modify the front wheel knuckle to strut bolt hole, others say it's not necessary.

See Install section 3.2 below:

https://www.foexplorer.com/ford_exp...tion_front_strut_and_spring_assembly-441.html

Thanks. That was what the proposed fabrication was going to be and what they claimed had been changed on the production model, an elongation of the strut bolt hole on each side. However, it never came to that. We talked further and they asked if I had gotten it aligned after installing the Steeda rear toe links, springs and sway bar and of course I had and provided them with the alignment sheet that showed the front was all within specs and the rear having only the camber out of spec. This had them scratching their heads and they decided to go back to the alignment machine and do a reset and calibration of it and put my ST back on it. Once they did that, the alignment wasn’t as out of spec as they thought and surprise, they could get it aligned without needing to modify the strut bolt hole. I asked them if they were going to contact anyone who had gotten an alignment earlier to come back in and have it rechecked and just got a blank stare.

Anyway, here’s the before calibration on the left and the after calibration starting point and final alignment on the right. They still don’t have the rear camber right but it’s where the other shop had it set and at this point, I wasn’t going to argue. Just glad to get out. I really do appreciate all of the input from folks as it helped tremendously. The other thing this taught me is to ask how frequently the shop resets and re-calibrates their alignment machine before letting them touch my vehicles.

I’d still get it to another shop and show them where the rear camber adjustment is and have them shoot it out to -.5° or so.

Agreed and will do it soon. Just want to take a deep breath and do some research to find a good alignment shop.

I just finished my Steeda spring install and everything seems fine but my steering wheel is off. It’s pointing like 5° to the right in order to go straight. Will an alignment fix this?

I have an appointment for two days from now

Yes. This is the reason you get an alignment. Have them set the rear camber at -.5°…it’ll make your rear wheels match the front in the fenders. Hopefully the shop isn’t stupid and knows by now where to adjust camber but if they tell you they can’t, point them to the upper control are where it bolts to the frame. That’s a slotted connection and where camber is adjusted from. Also tell them NO rear toe out at all…it needs a touch of toe in or it’ll eat the inside of the rear tires off in a hurry.

Thanks man, I’ll report back. I printed off the instructions from a previous post, and will note the NO rear toe out. Praying that they comply. They seem like car guys at this dealership but you never know which tech you’ll get.

back when I worked on my Jeep XJ, alignments didn’t mess with the steering wheel. I’d always have to adjust that separately. I dunno, might’ve been stupid shops that I worked with too!!

Had the alignment today. The tech, according to the surly and clearly not a car guy advisor, was “a Mustang guy and knows about all those lifts and crap”. Like putting springs on a Ford Performance vehicle is so weird. Meanwhile they have a $95k Braptor in the showroom. Anyway.

here are the specs. Let me know if this is ok

Look at your back tires…the right is tilted in a lot more at the top than the left. That 1° difference is unacceptable…they should match. The left side is much better.

definitely caught my eye too. Why the hell did he make it worse too? It started at -1.4 and ended at -1.8. I don’t know anything though. But I’ll have to call them on Monday.
I was there for two damn hours too