-
Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features
Welcome to the #1 Explorer ST Forum and Explorer ST community dedicated to Explorer ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Explorer ST Forum today!
24 ST Build progress
- Thread starter AggieSVT
- Start date
OP
Thread Starter
#2
Thread Starter
#2
Traded a 2019 Edge ST on it, looking for more room, better ride, and more power. I had previously owned a 2013 Ford Explorer Limited that I owned for 7 years and 150+k miles. Absolutely loved that car.
Once I took the ST for a spin, I knew that I was back home in the ST.
Took her home on 5/27 and already had some plans -
Splash Guards
Extra tint on the 2nd row and back
Catch can
Autostop eliminator
Once I took the ST for a spin, I knew that I was back home in the ST.
Took her home on 5/27 and already had some plans -
Splash Guards
Extra tint on the 2nd row and back
Catch can
Autostop eliminator
Last edited:
OP
Thread Starter
#4
OP
Thread Starter
#5
Thread Starter
#5
After adding the splash guards and getting the tint done, one thing just kept bugging me - those damn chrome lug nuts. This was an epic journey with my Edge for the same thing. I tried 3 different types of caps before I finally just went with the Ford Performance black lugnuts and black locking lugs.
(Pic with tint, splash guards, black lugnuts)
(Pic with tint, splash guards, black lugnuts)
-
1
- Show All
OP
Thread Starter
#8
OP
Thread Starter
#10
Thread Starter
#10
Dumping on someone else’s build, disappointing…..especially coming from you
I went through a monthlong journey with 5 different types of black lug nuts for my 2019 Edge ST, I finally went with a set that didn’t fit exactly and rusted. So rather than waste my time (more valuable). I went with the factory ones.
I went through a monthlong journey with 5 different types of black lug nuts for my 2019 Edge ST, I finally went with a set that didn’t fit exactly and rusted. So rather than waste my time (more valuable). I went with the factory ones.
OP
Thread Starter
#12
- Messages
- 1,494
- Reactions
- 718
- Points
- 162
- Location
- Nevada
- Vehicle
- '20 Raptor, '22 Explorer ST, '14 GT500, '03 F150
OP
Thread Starter
#19
Thread Starter
#19
More research and more reading on this site led me to my next upgrade. I upgraded the factory rear sway bar to the Steeda Adjustable rear sway bar. This is a huge upgrade and totally changes the way the Explorer feels in the corners, whether roundabouts or just turning the corner. Just as others have stated on here, this is biggest bang for the buck on how it changes the handling of the Explorer. The install was straight forward and easy.
The physical difference between the 2 bars in night and day. The stock bar weighed somewhere around 7.5lbs with the Steeda coming in at 17+lbs.
The physical difference between the 2 bars in night and day. The stock bar weighed somewhere around 7.5lbs with the Steeda coming in at 17+lbs.
-
1
- Show All
Here’s my opinion…take it as you will.
The oem bushings allow the diff to move but that’s not abnormal or really detrimental. The Steeda brace with 2 bushings (I don’t know what durometer) firms up the rear but the front rubber bushings still allow pinion rise on hard acceleration moving all the stress to the diff brace. If the bushings are too hard…the mounting hardware takes a beating and you wind up with this…some folks have said within 2 weeks. Steeda says they’ve revised the hardware but a few have still said they’re snapping studs. Steeda will also sell you their poly bushing inserts for the front to lock the diff down even further.
I honestly just don’t think it’s necessary…but Steeda sells plenty of parts so others agree with them. I personally think the ID Speed brace that was designed to work with the oem bushings to mimic the oem 4 bolt diff is the better design. The fact that it’s been out a lot longer and had zero failures would support that opinion.
The oem bushings allow the diff to move but that’s not abnormal or really detrimental. The Steeda brace with 2 bushings (I don’t know what durometer) firms up the rear but the front rubber bushings still allow pinion rise on hard acceleration moving all the stress to the diff brace. If the bushings are too hard…the mounting hardware takes a beating and you wind up with this…some folks have said within 2 weeks. Steeda says they’ve revised the hardware but a few have still said they’re snapping studs. Steeda will also sell you their poly bushing inserts for the front to lock the diff down even further.
I honestly just don’t think it’s necessary…but Steeda sells plenty of parts so others agree with them. I personally think the ID Speed brace that was designed to work with the oem bushings to mimic the oem 4 bolt diff is the better design. The fact that it’s been out a lot longer and had zero failures would support that opinion.
-
4
- Show All
