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24 ST Build progress

C

CoHPhasor

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#21
UNBROKEN said:
Here’s my opinion…take it as you will.
The oem bushings allow the diff to move but that’s not abnormal or really detrimental. The Steeda brace with 2 bushings (I don’t know what durometer) firms up the rear but the front rubber bushings still allow pinion rise on hard acceleration moving all the stress to the diff brace. If the bushings are too hard…the mounting hardware takes a beating and you wind up with this…some folks have said within 2 weeks. Steeda says they’ve revised the hardware but a few have still said they’re snapping studs. Steeda will also sell you their poly bushing inserts for the front to lock the diff down even further.
I honestly just don’t think it’s necessary…but Steeda sells plenty of parts so others agree with them. I personally think the ID Speed brace that was designed to work with the oem bushings to mimic the oem 4 bolt diff is the better design. The fact that it’s been out a lot longer and had zero failures would support that opinion.

View attachment 23752
Click to expand...
That is a good point.
I bought the front poly bushings too, assuming this mismatch might be a problem as well.
I almost went I.D.
 

OP
AggieSVT

AggieSVT

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Actually made this next purchase/install out of aesthetics need more than anything. The front strut tower brace that Ford provided is just ugly, so I ordered and installed the Steeda brace. So much more solid of a piece than the stamped steel provided. Love the fit and look, and bonus, it holds a long stem funnel perfectly for filling the oil after a change. :cool:

IMG_7025.jpeg
 

C

CoHPhasor

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#24
AggieSVT said:
Actually made this next purchase/install out of aesthetics need more than anything. The front strut tower brace that Ford provided is just ugly, so I ordered and installed the Steeda brace. So much more solid of a piece than the stamped steel provided. Love the fit and look, and bonus, it holds a long stem funnel perfectly for filling the oil after a change. :cool:

View attachment 23753
Click to expand...
Nice!
Not only is the stamped one ugly, the flex is LAUGHABLE
 

UNBROKEN

UNBROKEN

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#26
AggieSVT said:
Cookie sheets in our kitchen have less flex :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
It’s weak because it was never meant to be anything other than cosmetic. The actual bracing is under the cowl panels where the strut towers are triangulated to the firewall via large, tubular braces. This is also why aftermarket braces are cosmetic only and don’t actually improve the handling any. It’s been discussed ad nauseam here if someone wanted to search and read about it.
 

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AggieSVT

AggieSVT

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Thread Starter #27
UNBROKEN said:
It’s weak because it was never meant to be anything other than cosmetic. The actual bracing is under the cowl panels where the strut towers are triangulated to the firewall via large, tubular braces. This is also why aftermarket braces are cosmetic only and don’t actually improve the handling any. It’s been discussed ad nauseam here if someone wanted to search and read about it.
Click to expand...
“Actually made this next purchase/install out of aesthetics need more than anything. “

:sneaky::sneaky::sneaky:
 

UNBROKEN

UNBROKEN

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#28
AggieSVT said:
“Actually made this next purchase/install out of aesthetics need more than anything. “

:sneaky::sneaky::sneaky:
Click to expand...
I saw that…also saw the posts about how flexible the oem part is. Knowing it’s only cosmetic…it could be made of cardboard and not matter.
 

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AggieSVT

AggieSVT

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Thread Starter #29
Also did some interior mods as well. These are purely looks driven. Early on someone on the Interior Modifications section displayed a black insert for the center console. Found one I liked with the carbon fiber look. Also added the silver pedals which for the cost were a really cool addition (excuse the dirty mat)

IMG_7031.jpeg IMG_7032.jpeg IMG_7034.jpeg
 

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AggieSVT

AggieSVT

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Thread Starter #30
Like the chrome lug nuts, the chrome exhaust tips have bothered me since I brought it home. Stopped by a local muffler shop after work one day, explained what I was looking for, and the guy completely understood what I was trying to do.

Boring before picture -

IMG_7041.jpeg


Had him cut off the chrome tips and weld on 4” black tips.

IMG_7048.jpeg IMG_7049.jpeg IMG_7050.jpeg
 

powerboatr

powerboatr

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#31
That ruby red is just the shiiiiit
It got me. And we came home with a f250
 

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AggieSVT

AggieSVT

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powerboatr said:
That ruby red is just the shiiiiit
It got me. And we came home with a f250
Click to expand...
Nice!! The color is striking!
 

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AggieSVT

AggieSVT

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Couple more additions to help with the rear differential. I added a tougher rear differential bolt and the JXB rear diff insert. Yes I know the text is upside down, didn’t notice until I looked at the pictures :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

IMG_7343.jpeg

IMG_7346.jpeg
 

powerboatr

powerboatr

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#34
OP
AggieSVT

AggieSVT

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After a full detail, decided to get some pics with an appropriate background

IMG_7455.jpeg IMG_7352.jpeg IMG_7404.jpeg IMG_7398.jpeg
 

powerboatr

powerboatr

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Lucid red is killer all cleaned up
 

MacandCheeseST

MacandCheeseST

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#38
UNBROKEN said:
Here’s my opinion…take it as you will.
The oem bushings allow the diff to move but that’s not abnormal or really detrimental. The Steeda brace with 2 bushings (I don’t know what durometer) firms up the rear but the front rubber bushings still allow pinion rise on hard acceleration moving all the stress to the diff brace. If the bushings are too hard…the mounting hardware takes a beating and you wind up with this…some folks have said within 2 weeks. Steeda says they’ve revised the hardware but a few have still said they’re snapping studs. Steeda will also sell you their poly bushing inserts for the front to lock the diff down even further.
I honestly just don’t think it’s necessary…but Steeda sells plenty of parts so others agree with them. I personally think the ID Speed brace that was designed to work with the oem bushings to mimic the oem 4 bolt diff is the better design. The fact that it’s been out a lot longer and had zero failures would support that opinion.

View attachment 23752
Click to expand...
I’m on my 4th set of hardware… fortunately Steeda replaces and ships it for free.. I have all the components you can buy for the rear diff, bushings bolts etc.. and sheer these off after a few hard launches within a short period of time.. I don’t think these were rated for 700plus.. never had this problem until I was north of 650whp/tq.. but I’ve seen folks snapping them at the 500 range… but I ld rather these break than anything else lol
 

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AggieSVT

AggieSVT

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Thread Starter #40
Frankenstein said:
Which tips are those? That's exactly what I'm looking for.
Click to expand...
They were pretty generic, I am unsure of the brand that he had. 4” opening 6” long with I believe 2.75” inlet
 

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