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Plug something into it then leave the doors open for 10 minutes…the car will shut down everything that’s not constant power…then check to see if whatever you plugged in has power. Kinda basic…but it works.

Order this filter…it’s much better than anything K&N. But let’s be honest…you’re not going to feel a single things from a drop in filter swap. Buy it for the reusable convenience…it won’t add any power.

I think I’m gonna go ahead and do this swap. I lover everything about it except for the printed bottom trim people are using. I’ll send the screen to my friends at MTI to fab something more oem looking.

Some tires will. All 305’s are not created equal. The brands that run wide will rub…brands that run true to size or narrow do not run in a 305/40. A +35 offset with a 305/40 on a 10.5 wheel seems to be really safe from rubbing no matter the tire brand.

Your friends car rubbed with 305/40’s because of the 40…not the 305. I came up with the 22x10.5 +30 fitment with 305/35’s back in 2020 specifically to ensure there’s no rubbing.

Go +30 on the rear wheels but honestly a 10.5 wheel with 305’s square is perfect.

Gonna be hard to find a CA shop willing to risk a 5 figure fine to install some non-EPA compliant downpipes because someone asked online. This is a “you gotta know a guy” scenario.

You max out at about a 6mm slip on spacer if you want enough stud protruding to get enough threads into the lug nuts. Anything thicker is taking a big chance IMO unless you put in longer studs…which isn’t that hard either.

You’ll have to buy the two retainers and two delete panels from Ford. There is no kit.

Ask them for a dimensional drawing and compare with the same from SuperForged. If they’re making wheels they should be able to get that for you. A steelie will generally have a very flat center so big brake clearance is questionable. These giant brake kits are more prevalent now due in part to...

10” is stay between +25 and +30. I won’t recommend an 11” wheel. Front strut clearance is too tight if you keep the wheel flush. 20 or 22 I always say stick to something in the 30.4-30.8” OD range.

Your last sentence is why I run long on changes…my trips are never short and I live in a hot climate. Hell half the miles on my car are cross country road trips. I don’t buy into the turbo argument though…I’ve had turbo or supercharged cars and trucks exclusively for decades and never had any...

I’d just add a couple of Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonators at the end of the downpipes. It’ll tame it down for a lot less money and hassle than swapping exhausts.

I’m not a fan of that either. Luckily that’s easily fixed with aftermarket tips.

I like their slip joint connection style and the tip size…but rumor is Thermal is about to offer a larger tip option as well.

I never even look. 7500 give or take I think?

107K on the clock…regular Mobil 1 whenever the dash goes off…no early services. Tuned on 93 and E50 since 5K miles. Car runs like new.

It’s there for aerodynamics and fuel mileage. Any noise it may make is inaudible inside. Removing it would likely make even more noise from air passing the now rough undercarriage.

Road hazard? Yall come up with some wild theories. lol

I agree with most of your assessment. I’ve been saying a front bar isn’t needed ever since I installed one of the very early Afe front bars. Anyone that does should set it at its softest setting…IRS cars just don’t need a lot of front bar. As for the rear bar…set in on the firmest setting. IRS...