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For the door code on the driver's door? I hope you found the free way to do it. There's a youtube video.

In this day and time, nothing is cheap. Some dealers are charging a $200 diagnostic fee if your complaint isn't covered by warranty. WTF is that about??

Personally, I would not be going to a dealer that says they use LV instead of ULV or says there is no dipstick! If you can do it yourself, that would be the best way for piece of mind, but not sure what your comfort level is.

How many miles do you have? A 2020 may be nearing time to do a drain and fill anyways. If you are still under warranty, you can tell them your shifting is harsh at times. A good dealer, like mine, will check the trans oil level and flash to the latest PCM. If out of warranty, most DIY types...

Agree. Can't really say anything sounds out of place. If you feel it is louder than it has been, the downpipe welds are known to fail for MY2020-2021. I would try to visually inspect the downpipe at the upper end.

I found that Forscan is not reliable for maintenance mode activation. I had multiple attempts before it finally worked. Better to do it with the method Dale posted?

Get under there and look around. Remove that rectangular plastic undercover and look for oil leaks. Also check your front axle boots for leaks.

I would just get it warrantied.

Did they in fact flash your PCM? Check your invoice. Just like when you first got your Livernois, you need to make sure the strategy code didn't change or you would need a different tune from them. Happened to me a few years back. Livernois reset the device and started from scratch...

Do it yourself. https://www.explorerst.org/threads/ive-got-a-check-engine-light.3709/

I would not discount the smoke and burnt smell. You need to trouble shoot what exactly that was from.

On these cars (or any modern car for that matter), it behooves you to get a code reader and scan for codes. There are many issues that will produce these dash warnings. Hopefully it is just the speed sensor but could also be AWD module, front axle disconnect actuator, or transfer case.

Have you ever had the FADA replaced with a non-FADA intermediate shaft? Could be why the harness was cut. I would think if you had a FADA and the harness was cut, it would trigger a code though.

If it happened when starting and all you heard was a click, I would look at the starter as the cause of the smoke/burnt smell.

Have your modules been updated? There was a deep sleep TSB early on for MY2020 that called for a bunch of module updates. I've not had a deep sleep since although the experience has made me keep track of voltages closely. If you don't have a radar detector that has voltage display or a cig...

You need 2 qts of the 75W85 and only one qt of the 75W140. Mercon ULV is not synthetic. Triax ULV or Valvoline ULV (both synthetic) are what I've been going with lately.

Check with RockAuto first

Front diff capaity is 0.6 qt so just buy a quart (it's expensive). Transfer case: Buy 2 qts. Rear differential: Buy 2 qts. Trans: you may only spill 6 qts but Mercon ULV is not commonly found so I would have extra on hand. There are also synthetic aftermarket ULV oils available. Not sure...

I would do a master reset first. You will need to enter all your settings again but worth a try.

Ok but how do you like the sound?