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If it’s a subscription to a tunnel wash…you don’t really like the car anyway. lol

If you’re gonna run wide tires, you have to make some concessions. Washing your car more often as one of them.

It was designed around 4” tips

When I ran a high performance diesel shop a big can of Aqua Net was in each tech’s arsenal. lol

Clean the boots and connections and spray some hairspray in the boots then tighten the clamps well…no more issues. That trick has been around since the dawn of turbos and still works. The last connection I had come apart was a broken clamp.

FenFab is 400 cell…all of them are.

I wish there was a better way to install a poly bushing….I’ve had so many sleeves fail in one way or another over the years. The worst was some 4 link bars and the sleeve cut through the bushings…that made for a wonky ass ride. Anyway…I’m sure Brett will take care of it.

Plenty of reviews and first hand experience on some of the FB groups.

Dunno where you get that from but plenty have installed the afe rear bar only and even more have played with the settings if you take both bars into account. Save yourself some time and just set it on the firmest setting to start…that’s where you’ll wind up anyway. The afe bar is just as good as...

Plenty of independent tests on rotors like that and “upgraded” pads the show even worse performance than properly functioning oem brakes. I’ve tested them myself on past vehicles and seen zero improvement in braking distance or fade resistance. Some of them look cool….thats the extent of their...

He asked for upgrades. That’s a lateral move at best….certainly not an upgrade.

You have to be careful with those pods for a midrange. Many are too small and choke the driver. The tweeter pods are generally ok.

Reflashing to stock absolutely resets the key counter. It does a KAM reset.

Throw in the springs and bar and set the bar on its firmest setting. Consider adding the FenFab bushing braces as well…the improvement in the feel of the car with those is almost as big as adding the rear bar and for the price they’re a no brainer.

Took them forever. I was sending them test cars for their first version a couple of years ago…they never could get the CEL’s to stop. Glad they finally got it squared away.

Raising it isn’t an issue…the struts aren’t that strong. The issue is how do you release the latch if it fails?

I’d bet that’s one of the spring isolators out of place…likely the top one.

Increasing HP is great…using it is even better. The two best bangs for the buck are a rear swaybar and the FenFab subframe bushing inserts. Either one makes a big difference…do them together and it’ll feel like a new car. If you’re set on HP though go with an intercooler. It won’t add power but...

Nah…Brett did those a couple years ago.

Wait wait wait…I just looked at the link you posted. You put an ALUMINUM rivnut in there? And you’re telling people this is a “solution” to a problem? If I were you I’d delete this thread right now and just let everyone that saw this forget about it. lol