Search results

It's the new google system. A welcome change IMHO!

https://www.explorerst.org/threads/how-to-adding-hands-free-liftgate-late-22-and-23-explorer.5291/

Yeah, you need some protection. The fill cover/bolt can actually be loosened with a 19mm wench above the pipe but sooner or later, you need your bare fingers to further loosen the bolt and to handle it and the dipstick under it. I feel like your wrist area is most likely to contact so have...

On the used market, the price difference is probably negligible. You are much better off just trying to find one with the street pack. Even when new, it was a $1500 option but also included the 21" wheels. A no-brainer.

Well, there is also the aFe sway bar too--although time will tell how durable the finish on that is.

Update: after 18k miles and about 10 months, the ride with the PIU shocks/struts is definitely not as firm as it was. I had both rear shocks out and noticed oil "sweat" around the top 2" of the shocks. Testing compression and rebound by hand, it is clearly much softer than when they were new...

I'd get te 18" Timberline wheels if you could find them.

Yeah, we live up north, but I have never had OE, Eibach or H&R springs deteriorate like this. And it's mainly just the left rear spring. The right rear is acceptable, as are the fronts. Both are slathered in black fluid film otherwise, it probably would look worse than the pics let on...

One of my Steeda rear springs was heavily rusted (installed 8/2020). Thankfully, Steeda let me buy just the rear springs for $170 shipped. Installed them today. A lot easier the 2nd time around.

I wonder if adjusting the upper control arm all the way out should be part of the rear lowering springs install (for DIYers) before they go get the alignment.

@Cajun Heat:. Have you taken measurements? I think the early samples weren't any lower than H&R? I love my Steedas, even though the drop is modest--but it is a little ridiculous that I have to replace them after just over 3 yrs because of rust issues. was going to Eibach but gave Steeda...

Yeah, it needs to come from the sub as the signal to the other speakers are likely filtered. Here is this forum's definitive DIY add-on subwoofer thread (wish the @mcglsr2 had titled it for better search results)...

Well, you certainly have experienced most of the big ones. MY2020 is almost certainly going to have 1) downpipe (Cat) exhaust leak, 2) front axle boot leak (both sides), 3) midpipe flex section leak/failure (both sides), 4) front axle disconnect actuator leak, and 5) multiple modules needing...

Black painted roof: $4895... ouch! Are they back to roof rails come standard? No 2nd row bench? ...maybe the configurator is just a rough preliminary version. Overall, some solid changes. And liking the front end more and more.

2025 Explorer unveiled today. No hood light strip :(

i personally would go with a top tier mfg like H&R.

nice info WaferTech. It kind of corroborates one member's experience when codes looked like a faulty AWD module but the dealer came back and said the problem was so simple and quick to fix... a "connection" problem to the AWD module.

Looking good. Got to believe that's kind of how the 2025 Explorers are going to come from the factory with. Here's the look on the 2024 Escape:

If OP is not the original owner, maybe someone used Forscan to keep the cig lighter active indefinitely.

Maybe because your car is 4 years old, they don't want to do much with it. That said, I brought mine to my dealer in 2020 and they checked the trans fluid level (may have even topped it off because it was high now). They also did a PCM firmware update. Much better partial throttle shifting...