Search results

If you want to drop your entire rear subframe, burn out the OE rubber, clean the mounting shells, and add poly bushings (assuming ANYONE actually makes them), then put everything back together, feel free to report on how it turns out…after a day or two of labor.

Another install done, took about 90 minutes including tool gathering and driving up on ramps. Didn’t remove the rear wheels and it was no problem, especially on my 8” lift Race Ramps. It was also necessary to unbolt the rear exhaust hangers and slide the pipes to get at one of the bolts on those...

It’s not paint on Steeda’s parts, it’s a powder coat. That coating on suspension parts that flex will come off and lead to rust. They did offer me a replacement sway bar as well, but I have no desire to repeat the process every couple years. A Tier One supplier like Eibach probably won’t have...

This was my former Steeda sway bar after two winters in MI. I pulled it and went with the PIU bar & shocks. No way was I going to use their springs, even though they are really the only ones conducive to towing. Just stayed with the stock springs.

Have had the PIU rear bar and matching shocks on for a couple months now. Nice improvement and even better that it isn’t going to rust out like the Steeda bar. You have the correct p/n.

It’s shown in the instructions.

You can buy the Ford plate now for around $120. From the Timberline but fits all models. https://www.explorerst.org/threads/ford-performance-skid-plate-kit.6402/#post-81932

It does. Drain plug is on the left. No more fussing with the removable cover.

Adapted from the Timberline, now available as a kit for all Explorers, part number M-5018-EXP. Used some points from my Fordpass app and having it shipped to a local dealer for a grand total of $30. With code FALL15 on the app, 15% off until 10/31 (retail $150)...

I’ve had the IRS assembly out of my ‘03 Cobra a couple times - similar process. One tip for anyone is to remove the half-shafts & knuckles before you drop the subframe. Saves a lot of weight and takes away the lever arm(s) that makes it way more awkward to handle as it’s being lowered, and...

Same chassis, same fit. They have zero to do with ride height. Seems it has been asked before.

The Gibson mufflers are not restrictive at all.

What’s disappointing about it? The kit sounds fantastic and is priced right. I was happy to spend less than $500 for it as well.

Zero complaints with my Gibson kit. Sounds fantastic at all RPM’s. Not worried about rust since it has a lifetime warranty. The MRT stuff is nice, too. Had the H-pipe briefly and it had a nice bump in sound with the stock mufflers.

Yep, saw that. Not holding my breath for results.

It’s been brought up many times: get the PIU shocks. They are a perfect replacement for the ST versions and aren’t expensive at all. With the matching thicker sway bar, it’s a great combo to cut down on the under-steer.

I have a set of stock mufflers I removed when swapping in the Gibson axle-back - have been tempted to cut one open out of curiosity before they get scrapped. If I do it, I’ll snap some pictures. On that note, the Gibson kit has an amazing sound and is a fantastic bang-for-the-buck at around...

Correct - just a single part number. Steeda is probably using the subframe part number when ordering to verify they fit the appropriate version. Just CYA on their part.

These might help:

I had asked Brad (sgt1411, off the top of my head) if he could have scored some of that info since he is part of the police advisory board, but never followed up. If I recall, he did confirm additional “stiffness” with the dampers, coming from a Ford Engineer. EDIT: Here was a quote from him in...