Search results

For many, it is the side mirror causing the whistle. To confirm, drive until you hear the whistle, then press the button to make the side mirror retract. Ford revised the side mirror but unless yours is still under warranty (the side mirror can be $1000 depending on options) you are kind of...

makes me cringe when people are paying out of pocket for what is a software problem caused by Ford! For most, the best course of action is to be patient and wait for Ford to fix this. If you are comfortable enough, you can use the Cyanlab software to get back to 22200 which is free of these...

Here's a pic of a rear shock label of a 2.3L Explorer. Some part#'s are shared across the Explorers, but the other codes are different and the difference is in the details.

Just doing the PIU rear shocks may be the way to go. Doing the front struts in addition definitely feels planted but most would not appreciate the road feel that comes with doing all 4 corners. Just got back from a round trip from Ohio to Wilmington NC and most highways driven were NOT comfy...

22!!! Listen, the stock system sounds like crap at that level. It would be audibly clipping so there is no point in getting a fill sub to perform at that level with the stock sound system. And yes, I have the BO 14 speaker tech pkg. I would never run it over 15...it sounds like complete crap...

You are paying out of pocket? That's crazy. SYNC settings not persisting is definitely related to 22251. When it gets bad, master reset will hang up, Fordpass won't work. Either try the downgrade yourself or wait for Ford to fix it. If you are under warranty, Ford may replace your APIM...

Let me guess... you are on sync version 22251.

does nothing more than a soft reset would do.

It wouldn't hurt to reset transmission adaptive learning. I usually doso with Forscan Lite iOS

Not sure what data you are looking for but OBDLinkMX+ bluetooth dongle which you may already have for Forscan has an app that you can select some PIDS to display on your phone.

your APIM is out of memory and for some reason it is no longer being cleared. 22251 and 23088 share this problem. Unless you can downgrade to an older version, you have to wait until Ford comes out with a fix. I managed to install 22200 with the help of Cyanlabs but it wasn't without risk...

The driver's side door module more than rarely goes bad. But likely the Forscan changes are coincidental. I'd try doing the forscan service procedure to do a module reset on the drivers door module. There's also a "power window initialization, driver's side" under the same module service...

I don't know. To me, some of the imperfections are not even visible. A lip is going to get ding'd up by road debris and even parking lot mishaps in no time. I wouldn't even worry about it.

Even with 18" snow tires, I would not say ride comfort is much different. A lot depends on the tire and how worn they are though.

It's been a harrowing 24 hrs. I tried again to install an older version, this time 21265 which according to Cyanlab is a stable version. Unfortunately after install, the APIM was working but it was a blank screen. Decided to load up 22200 and that worked. rwdata lists 500+M / 1.2G free...

Was looking into the error (VER_ERR08) I got when trying to downgrade. Apparently 22251 introduced an bug where rwdata is not cleared and runs out of memory for stored settings and even updates. Solution? Do a Master Reset followed by two soft resets. I can confirm that some free memory was...

I use Cynalabs' Sync3Updater. Unfortunately, I tried downgrading to 22200 and it gave me an error. I guess I will have to wait until Ford fixes it.

Sadly, 23088 is the same way. And the display isn't the only setting it goes to default. It'll forget the Carplay was enabled for a device. So me report other navigation settings going to default. I'm going to try the sync version before 22251

That's strange. It should have been just fine. MRT used to have a clamp problem also but I believe they shipped their H-pipes, which hooked up to the midpipes, with 2.5" clamps (too large).

Does it look like that band can be compressed further by the bolt? I usually don't use a torque wrench on that--just wrench it as tight as possible or even an impact wrench (within reason). If it's still too loose, you might have to source a slightly smaller clamp. Should be 2.25" if I recall.