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They are both 10.9 bolts, yes, but what if the original bolts were not manufactured properly--like they weren't fully heat-treated? It just seems weird that some of the bolt failures posted look like they were just sheered off. To me though, the fact that my two bolt setup had bolts that...

Yup! Yours should make the same power as ST's with the FP tune. Nice!

So I have the two bolt subframe. MY2020 Build 6/2019, 66k miles. Replaced the two bolts with the new part# bolts today in about 20 minutes. Findings? Existing bolts were not bent at all and appear to be equivalent to the new part# bolts (grade 10.9). My conclusion? If you have a two bolt...

Are you giving charity to your dealership? Pretty sure they are making money hand over fist for you to be doing that. It's the same policy so not sure why you feel the need to pay more than you need to.

you got it

I lucked out on Ebay and got 4 for $12 shipped. Curious to see if any of my two bolts are bent. Maybe I take the two bolts for granted but am used to jacking the rear from the rear differential.:eek:

That's why many of us do oil vacuum extraction. Also, you better check it again...Mine is always 6 qts exactly but our cars do better with a little extra, especially if you like to launch hard at times. For the o-rings, just use a pick... easiest oil changes I've done on any car.

If it's small, I'd get the crack filled in. Safelite does that and it's a fraction of the cost of a new windshield which can run around $1000 nowadays. Just be aware that the Safelite process can ruin the windshield but then they will offer a discount on the full replacement (don't ask me how...

I'm actually surprised the Timberline came with the turbo 4 instead of 6.

It's no exaggeration. I used to get the no GPS sign and incorrect position all the time. After the first year, several SYNC updates, and one APIM firmware update, that problem seems to have resolved itself. Then there were just wonky issues with Sync display. More lately in the past year...

Can I ask what these cost? I've been thinking about replacing my two bolt, like Cruising68, to get the strongest bolts available. Been looking online but prices are all over...not sure what retail is.

Also, by Power, we are talking the audio power not the ignition button. You can reboot this even while driving if SYNC is acting wonky or the GPS is acting up. I've done this over 100 times in the past 4 years, lol.

I was looking over my car notes. Another member posted their repair invoice detailing the parts after the recall was issued. It was W720988-S439. Not sure what the significance of the last part.

Since the recall, I believe there's a new part # for the bolt. Hopefully it is stronger.

Did you try rebooting SYNC (hold down PWR + FFWD)?

Interesting. I have never had my car brake like that. It will alarm and maybe prime the brakes but never to a stop unless I am in intelligent cruise--which it doesn't sound like you were. Sounds like you were accelerating and it over-rode your throttle to stop? Have never had that happen in...

that's it. Id replace all of those. I think there are 6-8 of them.

I'm talking the cover underneath the car. At speed, the noise will seem to come from the door or the B-pillar but it's actually the undershield that's flapping around.

Curious to see what features it has--they have been removing features every year since MY2020. If the Android OS rumors are true, I may not get my wireless Carplay though...

It's usually the undershield making noise. The plastic retainers are garbage and come loose. Stainless M6 nuts with fender washers to replace those will solve that once and for all.