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Six weeks is unacceptable. Long ago, I had a new car with a blown engine that was repaired by the dealer in 4 weeks.

My only concern would be if there's a drive train issue they can just say "Well, you never performed the required update so we're not going to warranty your problems." The person's statement you quoted is based in reality and common sense, it has nothing to do with "age".:rolleyes: Yeah, I...

For me, I'm not saying FORD's tune isn't worth it. Just that it doesn't make any sense seeing their recall and subsequent parking brake "fix". But try telling that to some people. Otherwise, I'd be first in line to get it.

Anyone actually look at that graph? It shows 87 octane making 400 hp, when the owners manual says to use at least 91 octane for best performance. And the sales brochure states the 400 hp figure was accomplished on premium fuel. Something's not adding up here ...

Yes, breaks are extremely small in number. I've been saying that since day one (you can't tell that to some people on this forum Lol). But an extremely small number of breaks can not be minimized by the addition of even more hp/torque. Statistically, there will be a greater incidence of...

I forgot to mention the run I posted still had 1/2 a tank of dealer gas (87 octane?) mixed in with 1/2 tank of 93 that I put in. That combo equals 90 octane, which is less than the minimum 91 octane FORD recommennds for best performance. So I'm pretty happy with the 5.3 sec 0-60 time.

It's impossible to see how FORD would offer a factory tune on vehicles for which people have reported problems with, on both the 2 bolt and 4 bolt. The bean counters are sure to nix that idea before it ever gets to the starting gate.

I concur that Valvetronic can not guarantee a drone free result. So what I and others on this thread need to be reminded of is that they could spend tons of cash for something that later on might end up in the junk heap, which is exactly the concern I was relaying.

You can locate tire pressures via scrolling through your steering wheel button on the right. Both my ST's read over 40 psi from the factory, which is way too high. I think that's because it's the ST's "transport" setting for the tires, but dealers never check it when delivering to the customer.

Here's my best run so far with my bone stock "newer" 22 ST and 21" wheels. My previous 22 ST had the 20" wheels and its best run was 5.19 sec, but it happened with a 1/4 tank fuel and all my tools removed. This run was with 1/2 a tank of fuel and 40 lbs of tools still in the vehicle. NOTE...

I've had different results depending on temps (always keeping it in Drive). When it was warmer out and the tires hooked, disabling traction/stability control was best. When it was cooler out, I was getting excessive wheel spin so I kept traction/stability control on.

Put another way: "I had a lot more fun being 20 in the 70's. Which is why I'm paying for it now being 70 in the 20's."

Simple answer people: If the manufacturer doesn't state their exhaust is drone free, then expect it to drone. If I ever change the exhaust, it will either have a manufacturer's guarantee that is doesn't drone or it won't go on my car.

And here's why the topic has played it's course: the owner of an untuned 2020 (2/4 bolt) who drives it easy says he had a bolt break. That means we can rule out the 1/3 bolt assembly as being the cause of the problem. There's something else going on here other than whether or not there's an...

I thought they were called buses.

The power of choosing good is quickly eroding away.:( And yes, Roof Rails!

I've gotta take a trip to Mexico and watch the thousands of people doing their top speed runs. ;)

(y)

Well, we all have our own preferences. I had the moonroof and it was nice, but definitely not a requirement for me by any stretch of the imagination. Nav/Roof Rails/Street Pack is all I wanted, and for $54k, that's what I got!