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The only downside I see with the Weatheractives, is that they are rather loud. I agree that they are amazing in the rain, without a doubt the best tire I've driven on in heavy rain. Not that great in the snow(I have a set of Blizzaks for that). I've had mine on for 35k miles, and I don't...

The only issue Red Bull has is Max's father. Farley should have kept his nose out of the situation.

My engine was replaced at 10k for phasers.

There's already proven solutions for all of that. ZFG, Whipple, Afe(or S&B)

I've had good luck with my V1 Gen 2. State Boys using laser will still get you.

What did you use to glue it? I think they called for Super 90, but I have some Weldwood Landau that works for just about anything.

About what I figured. Was looking at getting a 30'x5' roll.

Roughly how much Thinsulate did you go through?

Keep in mind the entire rear diff would have to be replaced, as the ring gear is welded to it.

There's no need to pull the rear subframe to replace the diff. And really no reason to do an alignment when the knuckles are pulled either.

I'll probably just pick up two set from the Hazard Fraught down the road.

I'll have to check, but I'm pretty sure I've got this style from back when I had my S550. Although I never used it.

Those that installed lowering springs themselves, what type of spring compressor did you use?

I'm a bit confused by this, because it looks like the rotors alone are $1500-1600 for the racing brakes stuff. Dollar wise the GT350 would be cheaper, with $900 less in rotors, relatively inexpensive calipers, and a $450 bracket. Am I missing something?

The engine on my 21 was replaced at 10k.. But was most likely a phaser issue.

Any word on this yet?

Oil technology is a lot better also, so coking the bearings isn't as much of an issue.

I took a piece of 3/8" keystock and cut a small piece off and used a 3/8" open end.

It tore the output shaft seal and was pumping fluid out the drivers side

So is flushing/evacuating out of favor now?