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Jax Wax Total Interior...

How long did they have your vehicle to do the phasers?

Mine started doing the EXACT same thing.. Only on cold startup, and only for the 3-4 seconds.. I thought it might be flex pipes, but I just got under it.. I was hoping it wasn't oil pressure related... Mines also a 2021, with just around 10k miles.. Oil changed regulary.. First at 3k, then...

I think I remember reading somewhere about issues with the factory windshield and Ipass functionality. Is that true? I personally have a 15% eyebrow that is ceramic, which might make more of a difference than the windshield. Just wondering if people have had issues with it.

99.9% of the people on this site couldn't tell me the difference between GMAW and GTAW, without google, much less actually do it...

Of course yours is the magic unicorn that bucks the trends of 40 years of X-pipe installations.... Congrats.

High pitched and rasp is kind of a signature of anything with an X-pipe.

I personally won't tune a new car.. I have a quality background and in my experience most mechanical things follow a "bathtub" curve. Meaning you'll have failures at the beginning of the product life due to a varying number of failure modes, or at the end of life. Where that "mileage" marker...

5k.. Wix or Fomoco filter, and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Also have a UPR catchcan on it, and it's pretty enlightening to see how much condensation and fuel dilution there is. For the $40 bucks I spend to change to the oil and filter, it doesn't make sense to oil analysis and do Amsoil.

I read the owners manual and did what it said

People that pull that crap make me sick. Corporations don't eat that cost, every other consumer does. Either grow a pair and use a manual gun that's 10 bucks, or keep the other tool.

1/2" ID hose

Mine does this as well.

But 10r80!!

I'd rather see 0-60 or 1/4mi times than dyno numbers of a vehicle not moving, with the hood up..

Mandatory

Your F150 has a 10r80, the ST has a 10r60. The hesitation could be a couple different things. It could be the torque convertor locking up, or torque management pulling timing for the shift. I wouldn't really worry about it

Do I need any of the "options" available on the UPR, or is the stock setup with all the high flow stuff more than adequate?

How is the tension on the drain valve? My only fear is with vibration and my luck, it would rotate going down the road and drain the crankcase with the engine running. I could see construction some sort of clip(or collar) that's the width of the threaded part that clips onto the plug with it...

And where would you place the jack stands? I haven't gotten under mine yet, but lifting is only half the battle....