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Added the brake light flasher (finally).

Never have named mine. Called 'em a few, but "The Ram" or "The Speed" or "The truck" was all we used. The ST is just "my car".

Gave it a short rest and drove the Mustang for two days.

If you get the DelTran charger (I use the 4.5A on the ST), it'll come with a variety of connectors. Use the short pigtail direct to the battery. I have the charger mounted near the garage door with a 25' extension hanging on a hook outside. When it seems necessary, I pop the hood and route the...

Does the chase not light either, or does it settle with one side out?

The registration says "4606". That might be the dry weight.

That's what the scale read dropping off three tires at the landfill. Subtracting me, the tires and some odds 'n' ends, I guess the ST checks in at 4,800# or so.

Commenting on letting it go below 1/4 tank. I had to learn that lesson the hard way on my Ram Wagon to the tune of a $400 fuel pump. On a road trip last summer, my ST got a best of 26.4, average 24.2 for 2,600 miles, all on 93 ($5.40/gal :oops:). It was neat to combine the DTE to miles covered...

Towed my trailer with mower 70 miles to cut the grass at my other house. All the rain has encouraged the grass to perform beyond expectations. :rolleyes:

The DRL and parking lamps are in the panel under the dash. Unless the lead for the parking lamps can be positively identified, getting to that panel may be the only way. Does anyone know a good path through the firewall?

22 is the Electric Power Steering. That should be valid.

Welcome aboard.

That may be Ford's temporary answer to the differential problem. If so, disabling may not be a good thing to prevent a roll-away.

Well, as it turns out, there seems to be no under-hood fuse for the DRLs or parking lights.:mad: All those fuses are in the box under the dash. :mad::mad: Not sure I want to pierce the firewall for this.

Use the posts near the front of the hood (there are four). I had to turn mine down about two turns to get the latch to cooperate. Not a big deal - the hood/fender alignment is still good.

It can. When I bought mine, the hood was lower than the fenders. I got that cured. When I added the light strip yesterday, I had to lower the hood just a pinch so it would latch. It still sits a bit above the fender lines.

There are height-adjustable "stops" that control how far down the hood goes (also control alignment of the hood and the fenders). Turn those down a few turns and see what you get. I had to turn mine up to make the hood/fender alignment better.

I think I found it - fuse 21 is the headlight leveling and adaptive headlights. Depending on the sauna conditions, I may have the light strip done by the afternoon of the 4th.

Mine to that fairly often. Run the window all the way down and hold the switch down. Then run the window up and hold the switch up. That should end the shenanigans ('til it does it again).