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It depends on your scavaging setup and the exhaust pulse heading back towards the exhaust valves but long story short in turbo vehicles back pressure should be minimized as much as possible https://drivetribe.com/p/how-does-exhaust-backpressure-work-UVtF94NcRtGs2lm_FD8dlg?iid=Z7Dcugv6S0GyVLiVtQMoww

For what its worth, I REALLY like the ride quality of the Steeda springs. They match the stock shock valving very well. Super progressive and stable. It will float on the highway a dream but when things get choppy (potholes) or you get frisky, they are super stiff.

Total drop after 1 week and aggressive driving (testing out the rear sway bar) was 1.5" in the front and somewhere between 1.25" and 1.5" in the rear--it was definitely less than the front but hard to tell exact because the tire is set so far to the inside of the fender. I will say that H&R will...

so motorsport-tech's website isn't super clear about it but the Bora spacers are aluminum and the Stahl spacers are the steel ones. The "usual" rule of thumb is that you use aluminum spacers for high rpm/high speed applications and steel spacers for low speed/high torque applications.

Also talk to @ZFGracing. Adam might know if the difference is made up by different internals to the engine itself or if its just tuning. If its just tuning/mapping, he can most likely get you sorted well above the 400hp mark. ;-)

Bummer. I would be pissed if I was under that impression thanks to a sleazy sales guy. This is directly from Ford's website:

I was just teasing you. The Platinum is a sick truck. The only stuff the ST has that the Platinum doesn't is 400hp/415lb-ft (vs. 365/380 in Platinum), the black accents, bigger brakes, different suspension/shock tuning, bigger sway bars, and a different tune map for sport mode (trans shift...

Any concerns with lack of thread engagement with standard lug nuts if I were to remove the spacer at a later date? The ultimate goal is to get 22" wheels with proper wide offset and this is more of a band-aid until then, but I wouldn't want that missing 1/4" to bite me down the road.

Awesome! Thank you both! Any concerns with premature wheel bearing wear/failure with that much new offset?

a hacksaw. blue rust-oleum. its not anything that requires any level of precision. just sand the area a bit, sand the paint next to it a bit to create a transition zone, use a good primer and it looks factory.

Steeda is supposedly looking into the issue (they came on here and made a post)--not sure if they revised the design yet--those that complained directly were sent new bars or refunded the cost of the bar. Their explanation was that the bar was designed to work with their lowering springs (which...

You do realize that the ST has 3/4 of those items right? ;)

lol. touché

Sick! Looking forward to it!

drone on that setup *might* be a serious PITA... you will most likely need at least something to kill drone. or just turn up the radio. ;-)

I did and they do. I did not know if it was just me so I didn't post anything, but mine settled ALOT over the first week of installation but still kept the raked look because the drop is the same fr and rr whereas H&R drops the rear level. And they ride REALLY nice.

he meant "in stock". everyone has been complaining that they are out of stock for awhile now. I have Steeda springs though and love them. People should really not stress that extra 1/2" of drop.

i say go for it. be different! if you want a more GT-R sound, skip the canister style muffler and just use a couple helmholz chambers. this setup plus a simple x-pipe further up the stream would be amazing and get you that more higher pitched braaaap sound.

it would be extremely hard to tell the difference between the two. i have the Steeda springs and parked side by side, another owner with H&R springs and myself couldn't tell which truck had H&R and which had Steeda.

did you have to cut/trim your stock studs? does the Bora kit come with nuts? mind telling a little bit more about what was involved?