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Steeda or Fenfab Subframe Bushing Inserts. That is a cheap, easy must-do. And JXB Diff Bushing Insert while you're back there.

Do it. It's so cheap, I feel It's one of those must-do items. Then as your a 1-bolt, grab a diff brace down the line. Also, while you're under there, get the Steeda or Fenfab Subframe Bushing Locks. Another cheap, super easy mod that makes a very noticeable difference.

285/50. Yes, I have a sickness for the thickness when it comes to sidewalls. I liked the slightly taller sidewalls over 295/45s.

Houston Speed Freaks put out a Youtube video on the install and impressions. Sounds like it helped, but did increase NVH. He said the NVH got better as the mount got used and worn in over a couple hundred miles. Looks like a nice, cheap upgrade. Would like to see other impressions as well.

Mainly to get rid of the trash OEM flex pipes.

Then get Steeda Subframe Bushing Inserts next, they make a world of difference.

Intercooler, suspension stuff, and the cat-back exhausts (just go Thermal) are all fine. None of the CAIs are CARB legal, although I believe AFE is working on that. Don't quote me though. Obviously, all DPs are a no-no but only if the smog tech is looking closely. The Whoosh ones with the...

A few weeks ago, changing my oil and noticed oil all around the front of the pan and leaking from the FDAD, so I had the dealer fix those under warranty. They even used the nice, black painted PI axle on the driver's side. Still the rusty one on the passenger side. :( It was also time for new...

Get a new battery. Duralast Platinum AGM size 48. $249 with $22 refundable core charge. Done.

I don't have Borla on my Explorer but ran them on every Mustang I've owned. They all had weep holes predrilled. Nice to know they still do that.

Need GT350 calipers, GT350 rotors, GT350 caliper bolts, GT350 banjo bolts and crush washers, Tony Hernandez's / MoFo Engineering brackets (from Facebook), and the caliper pin kit (order from LMR; much much cheaper than ordering these from Ford). Only modification needed is cutting the little L...

The bar is cosmetic. The front of this car is all thick cast aluminum with a substantial brace under the cowl. This isn't like an old cooked-spaghetti Fox or SN95 Mustang. I like the looks of the Steeda bar and use it to hold myself up when I'm working in the engine. It serves no real...

Check the hub bore and bolt pattern on the S197 Mustangs. I know the S550/S650 share that with the Explorer, but not sure about the S197.

Tyler's bushings finally shit the bed, I didn't think he had any differential issues. Yes, but the Diff Bushing Inserts will provide the piece of mind he needs for his use. Like the Steeda ones for the Subframe Bushings, the JXB Diff Bushing Inserts will fill the voids in the rubber so the...

Definitely get the Steeda Subframe Bushing Inserts. Immediately. No question, just do it. If you're not launching it, skip the brace for now; you have the 4-bolt rear and that is plenty strong. The resident ExST Street Racer Tyler Clark survived 65K miles and countless E50-fueled launches...

Agreed. I'm still holding out hope Tony gets a bracket made for the rear using the GT350 calipers and S650 GT PP/Dark Horse EPD caliper. It's a great budget option that will stop the car great for most people, but being a budget option means it's not perfect. If you can only spend $1300, you...

Yes, Steeda springs. H&R and Eibach are available if you want more low.

Rotoras cost about $7000 all in (not sure if they run sales or not) Superforged is about $3900 all in. Front only kits: Racing Brake kit using a Jeep SRT caliper: probably $2000 all in GT350 caliper and rotor using MoFo Speed bracket: about $1300 all in depending on where you get parts

Yes, REAR fitment S550/S650 Mustang wheels that are in the 20x10/11 range usually have too high an offset. My wheels are the FRONT fitment, 20x9.5 +33, but the same wheels in REAR fitment are 20x10.5 +45.