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Yes, Forscan still works. Need to get it so I can activate my heated steering wheel. Don't want my hands to get cold while I'm using the Raptor to its full abilities in the Starbucks drive thru!

Well my 2023 Raptor is identical to the 2022, not even a refresh like the 25 Explorer, and my ECU is locked and not tuneable while 21-22 are tuneable. I'm sure Ford will do the same to the 25 Explorers.

My base brakes were pretty much toast at 30K miles. I'm not super kind to the brakes though.

You have a picture of the fitment? I got the 3D Spider folding cargo mat for the rear and love it. I want to replace my trash Weathertechs.

Get the Steeda Subframe Bushing Inserts. They make a huge difference.

This is a pretty easy job if you have to go to yourself. Axle is around $140, get an impact for the axle nut and have at it. But both my fronts were replaced under warranty and I have Steeda lowering springs, so your dealer is being a dick.

ZFG will not use this. He uses HPTuners and will stay that way. Don't bother with the Cobb OTS tune. If you want to go this Cobb route, go to @GooseTuned. Winfield, who runs it, makes a custom tune file using the Cobb Accessport. He does great work on the Raptors. I will be interested to...

Tony was supposed to be making a bracket to use the GT500 front brakes (16.5") in addition to his current GT350 bracket (15.5") so that's a start!

Yes, no one has adapted the Mustang and any other OEM rear Brembo. The GT350 won't work as that car uses a drum parking brake. The GT500 or S650 Performance Pack (not sure how much, if any, these are different than the GT500) rear Brembos could work as they have a separate EPB caliper. We...

These will work just fine. All mounting and attachment points are the same. Several have said it, the bushing inserts are a MUST DO mod to every Explorer. Personally I'd get Steeda Toe Links before either Vertical Links.

There are numerous posts on the various Explorer ST Facebook forums. Just search. Hell, look at Post #39 in this thread. It's a front-only upgrade. I'm very happy with mine.

First get the Platinum struts/shocks and springs. Then, downsize to smaller diameter and lighter wheels. And get appropriately sized tires with a fatter sidewall.

The Steeda kit will work for all subframes you'd find under an Explorer ST.

Besides the visual appeal, the only improvement is it's smaller and further back than the factory bar, so makes access to some engine parts easier. And it's stiff enough to put your weight on when trying to access this peanut engine down in the engine bay.

Thanks! Nope, I added that. Wanted to spice it up a little bit so bought that badge since it's clean and simple. It's from a Nissan RB26DETT, the R32-R34 GT-R motor.

Fixed something that always bothered me with the Fenfab ECU cover. I had put plastic loom around the wiring harness, but the huge plug was always touching off against the cover. Finally pulled the clip from the core support, cut the larger Christmas tree clip off, and drilled a hole about 3/4"...

Looks awesome! I can't believe Ford makes us go through this to get a decent hood while the slow, whack Durango R/T comes with a pretty cool vented hood.

Did a few things. Replaced my front brake pads; had Powerstop Z23 and put in Z26. Installed the rear LED kit from Houston Speed Freaks. I previously had some other LEDs for the license plate and reverse light, but stock incandescent then signal. These HSF bulbs blow those out of the water...

Couldn't have said it better Richard. People don't understand how much of a change these subframe bushing inserts make. This is a must do mod. And super easy too. And I'll have to order up Brett's vertical links as well. I got the Steeda VLI as they were cheap, but also in my head I thought the...

Yep I agree with what Steeda and BMR techs said in that thread. The VLs help but not as much as all the bushings. Like @UNBROKEN said, I want all the pieces to this suspension puzzle, and these are part of that.