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Check your VLI hardware, see if you have the same bolts they included for mine with the shoulder. If so you'll need ot hit up a hardware store. The M10x1.5x35 is exactly long enough to be flush with the end of the included nylock nut.

I have no data, butt-dyno or otherwise, yet to say it truly makes an improvement, but seeing the wide-open stamped steel 3-sided vertical link, I figure anything to make it more solid will help with suspension stiffness or wheelhop. So far, this is an assumption. There is no video evidence...

Installed the Steeda Vertical Link Insert. That wide open vertical link always concerned me. Very easy, but the issue was the bolts Steeda sent have a shoulder which doesn't let the flange clamp down on the vertical link. I sent them an email about it, but just scrounged in my screw stash and...

I used Antigravity lithium batteries in my old 03 Cobra and 13 Boss 302. I drove those sparingly, and with those batteries the Cobra would start up just fine after sitting for 4-5 weeks. The weight loss was nice too. Antigravity makes an H6 size that would be a direct fit. It's pricey, but...

@Polo08816 Regardless of if the NVH would increase or not, full bushing replacement wouldn't be worth the work. These are very cheap and take 60 minutes (if you are slow) to install on jack stands on your garage floor. I've felt a noticeable improvement not only in launching but in just daily...

I like my Steedas. It's the right amount of lowering I was looking for. Handling is nicer, and the ride feels better than stock as there is no secondary bouncing or floating like with the stock springs. Can't go wrong with these.

Both fronts will fail at some point. The boot design has been updated on the replacements. Normal, covered under powertrain warranty, and super easy and cheap to do if you're out of powertrain warranty.

@Stone17 list above is perfect. I'd skip the Ford pads as they make dust while you're parked. Make sure you're getting the red GT350R calipers and not the base black GT350 calipers since it sounds like you have the Street Pack brakes. And you will need spacers if you are running the stock...

Yes I noticed the different boot design as well. My 1st replacement that failed actually was leaking at the big end. It was weird, looked like the band clamp wasn't tightened properly.

No one is saying it doesn't. But you're asking for a major redesign a component that would require a large amount of work, cost, engineering, and system integration for very minimal trade-off. It's a pedal; you step on it and car goes vroom. A tune will change what happens compared to how far...

No. If you want to check out Digi-Key and try to piece together a new pedal assembly with different potentiometers then get new springs, add better bushings and change molded components, go for it.

No one is asking whether they have 1 bolt or 2 bolts. The Steeda Subframe Bushing Inserts (yes I changed the subject of this thread) fit 2 of the 4 subframes in the Explorers, and you should confirm the subframe part number your car was built with before ordering.

You're looking at the wrong place. F is for the 2.3L. J is for all 3.0L Explorers. G is the 3.3L Hybrid or Aviator. There's not a different kit for the different part numbers. Just plug in J (that's what mine said from the VIN) and order it up.

Skip a diff brace for now with the 2-bolt. But you should order up the Steeda Subframe Bushing Insert kit. This will help with wheelhop and reducing movement on any Explorer.

This is a must-do mod even at stock power levels!

Yes the GT350 kit should be cheaper. The rotors should be about $300 each and the calipers about $200 each. Then the $415 bracket from Tony. Then around $100 for the bolts, pins, washers. Then about $50 for pads.

This makes sense. I was looking at mine and trying to see how those ears could fold from driving, and the pivot points of everything don't seem to allow that much movement. It would need to be a large amount of fore/aft movement at the spindle to do that, and I'm sure something else would have...

@GearHead_1 Yes it was an OE part. Factory one had the exploding boot, so it was replaced under warranty. The replacement started leaking and failing, so I had to replace the replacement. Again, OE part just went in. As far as aftermarket, I only see one from GSP on RockAuto. A little...

Replaced my driver's front axle. Worked from home today so I did this during lunch. I had this same axle replaced about 2 months ago due to the boot failing and grease going everywhere, as per usual. 2 weeks ago I noticed a little grease inside the wheel again and the tell-tale clicking while...

Either Racing Brake (Jeep SRT Brembos) or the GT350 kit is great for the front. They both look much nicer and have a wide selection of aftermarket pads so you don't need factory Jeep or Ford pads. IF you do the GT350 kit, I'd highly recommend skipping the Ford pads as you'll be cleaning dust...