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Checked, even though I shouldn't have a deleted BOV by mfr date, I have a circular dimple in my charge pipe where a BOV would be, so I guess mine was made without the BOV. (What the hell, saving money?) Called the good folks at LP, grabbed these tax-return joy-bringers: - aFe charge pipes in...

Quicklift 7000lb? I mean, if youre gonna buy one later anyway... (Costco for the best deal) Although, TBH, when talking replacing turbos - I dont like risking shearing bolts in manifolds, and the shop may have some good knowledge about best practices for hanging/checking the turbo anyway, so you...

Unclean welds with little bits that could vibrate free internally in the IC then get launched into the TB/intake manifold/pistons? That is a hard pass. I know the likelihood could be low, but a reputable manufacturer ensures this doesn't happen. A cheap Chinese place? Who knows. Also, as...

Like Unbroken said - the downpipes are connected directly to the turbos. If a performance shop is doing the turbos, they have to disconnect the DP's anyway, so have them do it. (The only thing it adds for them is disconnecting the DPs from the exhaust and bolting the new one onto the exhaust)

Which Charge pipe set do I need if my build date is Mar 28 2021? Is there something I need to visually inspect? I'm definitely serious about charge pipes - why not do it when I do my IC? :cool:

I'll be doing the same, tossing on a Whipple before any other mods. No heatsoaking and cooler intake temps (more surface area and all-aluminum plus bar and plate = better cooling efficiency) will provide some amount of better response (easier to prevent knock especially on lower grade gas, so...

I dont disagree. The Mario/Chick Hicks mustache on 2025 is preposterous. As for the digital cluster - the cluster isn't the problem. It's the terribly designed gauges/instruments/placements. If they made it to where we could customize placements, information displayed, and how it was displayed...

Thanks for that! I didn't know this was a thing, and I'm a late March of 21 build date.

Cmon, you dont dig Mario's mustache? But the Mario Bros movie made lotsa money! :ROFLMAO:

^ Oh, they're getting crazy. BlueCruise is their automated driving crap, but other manufacturers are getting NUTS, with things like heated seats, dual-climate zones, etc

Subscription-based options in a car needs to die a swift death. The vehicle, and everything in it should remain the sole property of the owner, and options purchased/installed should be included in that. Tesla and every a**hole businessman who wet dreams about perpetual profits from something...

That is great news. I'm glad to hear you were able to get it straightened out. Thanks for including the background information for what all was going on with your ST at the time you had the problem, it made it very easy to troubleshoot. :cool:

There is a recall, but it isn't going to fix much - it'll still be 3 bolts. Again, if you're going to jump on it - get one of the diff stiffeners. Even expensive ones are $500, which is pretty cheap, bolt-on-able insurance. (I'm looking at grabbing the Steeda, with the front diff poly bushing...

The GN is legend. A production BUICK rollin that hard, for that low of a price? :cool: Unfortunately it was the old-school single large turbo(laaaa-ag), vs two small twin-scrollers, but still honorable and absolute bucket-list.

Welcome! I am truly sorry to hear the Durango horror story, you had it way worse than my Ford Fusion Energi! With any luck, your ST will be much better. Take a look at recalls, and if you have the 3-bolt diff (IIRC everyone will on a '23), you might want to look at one of the diff stiffening...

That is the most incredibly lop-sided race. If you can't disable the hybrid's electric-only acceleration from the line, how do you beat an ST? Their rolling-race is also nullified by the fact that those vehicles are mainly designed for efficiency and a "little bit of fun" on top of that. The ST...

Just that, really. You are unlikely to build up enough water to cause water to roll down the pipes to the exhaust manifold and get in, as you usually drive forward, pushing water to the back, allowing it to exit. You are not going to fully block exhaust from escaping, as your muffler does not...

Closer to the downpipes? I don't know that I'd advise that. 1. You would be letting out exhaust gas under the cabin, which is a nono and will fail inspections 2. Exhaust is far louder when you're closer to the engine, so you'll be letting out noise 3. Turbos work best when exhaust flow is...

Just so you understand - running anything except the highest octane fuel you can buy, in a turbo vehicle, is stupid. "grades of gas don't matter!" is the cry of a naturally-aspirated car owner that does not have ignition timing/compression that takes advantage of, or needs high octane fuel. What...

Luckily you can do it piecemeal. If you are going to do intake I would say the best bang for the buck is the IC. (Which is why Whipple does an IC/tune combo) Charge pipes can be changed later with very few tools/no bumper removal, and you can choose to do just cold side first, and add hot side...