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I do get it here and there yes. Depends on speed and how hard I brake, I find. It’s not severe. I figure it’s the rotors, and at last report I only have a few mm left on the pads, so I’ll have it all looked over at the same time.

That’s one thing I like about disabling the parking sensors, it automatically kills the reverse brake assist too. The brake assist in both directions on these vehicles is absolutely horrendous.

Agree 100%. I turn it off on the regular. I’ve been jeopardized by it more than I’ve been helped. And it doesn’t even release the brakes once the conflict is cleared…at least on mine…I have to make a complete stop even if the thing it thinks I was going to hit moves out of my way.

God that’s weak.

I would love to understand how they try to justify having a powertrain warranty that does not cover the system that controls a big part of the powertrain.

I was at 98,000 km, which is outside of the bumper to bumper warranty, but inside the powertrain warranty, and the service advisor told me it was covered under the powertrain warranty. Zero $.

Warranty.

I just had this, or a similar thing. It was the AWD module.

Sorry for the delay. I don’t like clumsy designs that overcomplicate something that can, and should, be extremely simple. Extra tools (on some makes and models, the tools for the cartridge filters are specific to that design), time spent fiddling with o-rings (I have hands like christmas hams)...

Glad Ford made it the way you like it then. I, on the other hand, hate the damn things.

Supposedly not much, there’s a schrader valve you blow air into before you take the filter off and that allegedly evacuates most of the oil from the filter.

The price is a bit exorbitant, I will admit that, although sanity and convenience are things I’m usually willing to pay for. Especially to convert things that are stupid designs back to the way god intended.

Yeah hence my curiosity as the picture don’t show any o-rings on the dick tip thing. The rings on the adapter body itself will obviously be there although I doubt they would be a *frequent* replacement item. Certainly would be curious to know the recommended interval. Shall have to look into that.

Can’t speak for anyone else but I’m more interested in the eliminating the cartridge filter and fucking with the o-rings factor than anything to do with the dry starting.

No small o-rings for the dick tip like in the factory housing?

Just went through this. Had error messages for 4wd, hill start assist, traction control, whole bunch of other shit. 6 error messages, 8 OBD2 codes, all diagnosed as a faulty AWD Module, part # L1MZ 7P238 A, covered under the powertrain warranty. Good thing it crapped out when it did - 98,952km...

I’ve had it done but not done it myself; with that said, I was a lube tech (pit bitch, grease monkey, whatever you want to call me) for 7 years and did diff fluid replacements hundreds of times on many many many 4x4 vehicles, and I’ve never heard of putting anything in neutral to service...

Ran 87 since day one, switched to 91 when I had to do a little towing. Never noticed much if any performance difference. I’m sure a dyno would disagree, but by seat of the pants, nothing noticeable.

I used to have occasional blue screen, but since they fixed it with the latest update, now I get more frequent blue screen and sometimes black flickering screen! At least they fixed the occasional part by making it more frequent lol

Unless there’s something new after the 2020’s, the flaps do NOT lock.