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Is this on a 2025 or 2020?

You mean 3 years to fix a camera system isn't reasonable?:ROFLMAO:

That link points to a kit with 2.5" MBRP catback.

Price is down to $47 with discount. I decided it was worth the gamble at that price. Supposed to arrive early Dec.

So you did the switcheroo for both cars and neither could start the other car?? well not sure that tells you anything. I don't think the CCA difference should hold back the mustang battery from starting the Explorer. For me, I would avoid the dealer at all cost. They'll probably charge you a...

On my Miata, I only drive it 3k miles a year. I change the filter every other year but change the oil (synthetic) every year.

I would try disconnecting that battery and using the jumper cables to connect the Mustang battery to the explorer leads, ie. take the Explorer battery completely out of the picture

You don't have one of those portable jump starters/power bricks? I'd be curious if it would crank briskly with more power connected. I would still think there's an issue with the battery even though voltages are good and it tests out good. Certainly could be bad starter or starter circuit but...

Long shot but plenty of people have reported electrical issues shortly after a battery change--make sure all the terminals have been tightened down. They are all removed when taking out the battery. Also, I do not think it's normal to drop to 7V when starting the car. I've had my car in ACC...

Highway rattling/flapping/tapping are usually the undershield on the bottom of the car. Have you ruled that out? Plastic retainers fail and should ber replaced with M6 nuts/fender washers (stainless steel).

Beg to differ. It's 80%. Easy to verify with Forscan. When set to 95%, voltage will be 14+V most of the time when running.

The battery will be around 13.5V to 14.3V when alternator is charging. It will drop to near 12V when the battery is at state of charge 80%. 12.5V with the car off is respectable. Question is, what is the voltage after you leave it overnight? If the car is struggling to start, I bet that it...

Are we talking about 2 issues? 1. hissing on startup. 2. A/C blowing ambient air instead of cold.

i have never noticed hissing. a/c gets cold extremely quick.

You better check for FADA oil leak. Remove that center rectangular undershield. It'll be on the driver's side. Do not ignore an oil leak!

What have you tried so far?

Run a line from the fuse box in the Driver's footwell.

I guess I assumed you meant the catalyst was spent. Certainly the downpipe could be cracked leaking exhaust fumes. Even the revised oe downpipe has had failures.

I wouldn't judge based on smell. If the cats were bad, there'd be a cat insufficiency code. The problem with some of the cheaper downpipes is people are getting codes, even with defoulers!

Here's a short clip of the MRT H-pipe on stock exhaust: