• Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features

    Welcome to the #1 Explorer ST Forum and Explorer ST community dedicated to Explorer ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Explorer ST Forum today!


Aftermarket Amplifier Wiring Guide

Messages
46
Reactions
13
Points
2
Location
Madison, WI
Vehicle
2002 Ford Mustang
#1
I am finally getting around to upgrading my audio system. I have the premium tech package with the subwoofer and all that. I am thinking of purchasing a LC-6.1200 so I can power 2 sets of speakers and install an aftermarket subwoofer as well all in the same package. I just pulled apart the back of my vehicle to see what I am dealing with and was hoping to get some help on a few things.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram? I need the speaker level inputs for front and back speakers.

Are the speaker level inputs going into the amp on the back side of the oem subwoofer or do I need to find them somewhere else?

Is there a remote power-on cable anywhere in the back left section?
 

OP
B
Messages
46
Reactions
13
Points
2
Location
Madison, WI
Vehicle
2002 Ford Mustang
Thread Starter #2
Here is a photo of the amplifier. I need speaker level inputs for my new amplifier. I am hoping those are in the bunch of colored wires? 1685548002257.png
1685548187311.png
 

Messages
34
Reactions
8
Points
2
Location
California
Vehicle
2020 Explorer ST
#3
I am finally getting around to upgrading my audio system. I have the premium tech package with the subwoofer and all that. I am thinking of purchasing a LC-6.1200 so I can power 2 sets of speakers and install an aftermarket subwoofer as well all in the same package. I just pulled apart the back of my vehicle to see what I am dealing with and was hoping to get some help on a few things.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram? I need the speaker level inputs for front and back speakers.

Are the speaker level inputs going into the amp on the back side of the oem subwoofer or do I need to find them somewhere else?

Is there a remote power-on cable anywhere in the back left section?

From my understanding you need to buy a Interface module to convert the signal but not 100% sure if its different with the amp you plan to run. At least thats what I was told.
 

UNBROKEN

4000 Post Club
Messages
4,640
Reactions
5,543
Points
352
Location
Houston, TX, USA
#4
From my understanding you need to buy a Interface module to convert the signal but not 100% sure if its different with the amp you plan to run. At least thats what I was told.
He’s looking at an amp with speaker level inputs so he won’t need an interface. It’s far from ideal but it will make sound. It’s no different than wiring in a line level converter like an LC2i.
 

Messages
34
Reactions
8
Points
2
Location
California
Vehicle
2020 Explorer ST
#5
He’s looking at an amp with speaker level inputs so he won’t need an interface. It’s far from ideal but it will make sound. It’s no different than wiring in a line level converter like an LC2i.
Whats the downfall of doing what he is doing vs using the interface like the pac or nav tv? Thought the purpose of the interface was to bring out a flat eq to the amps to work with and blend all the eq together?
 

Cruising68

1000 Post Club
Messages
1,672
Reactions
1,225
Points
262
Location
Chicago, IL, USA
#6
You will get more distortion from Bose speaker outputs, basically amplifying twice. You get a reasonable clean pre-amp signal out of the Nav-Tv without all the Bose amp eq weirdness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Messages
34
Reactions
8
Points
2
Location
California
Vehicle
2020 Explorer ST
#7
You will get more distortion from Bose speaker outputs, basically amplifying twice. You get a reasonable clean pre-amp signal out of the Nav-Tv without all the Bose amp eq weirdness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So getting it from the speaker outputs the signal is amplified and still eqd to whatever settings the manufacturer did correct?
 

UNBROKEN

4000 Post Club
Messages
4,640
Reactions
5,543
Points
352
Location
Houston, TX, USA
#8
You will get more distortion from Bose speaker outputs, basically amplifying twice. You get a reasonable clean pre-amp signal out of the Nav-Tv without all the Bose amp eq weirdness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you use the NAV it’s a dead flat signal out. We’ve measured it more than once in more than one Ford vehicle. There’s nothing better on the market. With it being a CAN-BUS car even the USB is a great input because it maintains a digital signal all the way through the chain to your processor or amps. I use optical out of the NAV so it’s a 100% digital signal chain to the amps.
 

UNBROKEN

4000 Post Club
Messages
4,640
Reactions
5,543
Points
352
Location
Houston, TX, USA
#9
So getting it from the speaker outputs the signal is amplified and still eqd to whatever settings the manufacturer did correct?
Not only EQ but also any filters they used in their tuning process. OEM’s love all pass filters and if you don’t know what they did it makes it quite a bit harder to make things sound good.
 

Cruising68

1000 Post Club
Messages
1,672
Reactions
1,225
Points
262
Location
Chicago, IL, USA
#10
Agree. I was surprised I got zero distortion at my amp thru a NavTV even at max volume on the head unit.
 

Messages
58
Reactions
32
Points
17
Location
SW Louisiana
Vehicle
2020 Explorer ST
#11
Not only EQ but also any filters they used in their tuning process. OEM’s love all pass filters and if you don’t know what they did it makes it quite a bit harder to make things sound good.
There is other strangeness that occurs on the factory speaker outputs... The subwoofer level dials itself down when you start driving it hard in a somewhat unpredictable way. It behaves like it is a thermal protection that is not strictly volume based. Once you turn the volume up enough (about 15), the bass will fade in and out without touching the radio. I've fully disconnected the factory sub, so this has nothing to do with the load on the sub circuit.

There is definitely some heavy EQ happening in the factory amp. I've tried dialing the bass on the head unit down and pushing the amp gains. That resulted in a very unbalanced sound with the ~30-40Hz frequencies boosted way too much. And it didn't really help much with the cutout problem. I even tried tapping the front speaker outputs to drive my sub to get away from this issue, but the low frequencies died off too dramatically. There may be hope to DSP those signals, but I only did a short test before falling back to the sub signals.

One day I'll switch to the NAV, but I have a hard time justifying the the investment (speakers, amps, dsp, time) for better listening on with my 3 mile commute. Firearms and cheap car audio from my teenage years wrecked my hearing too much to fully appreciate a system like UNBROKEN put together anyway.
 

Messages
281
Reactions
92
Points
27
Location
Desert South West
Vehicle
2023 Explorer ST
#12
OP
B

Bosh

Member
Messages
46
Reactions
13
Points
2
Location
Madison, WI
Vehicle
2002 Ford Mustang
Thread Starter #13
Do you still need the pinouts for those connectors? 12 or 14 speaker system?
Yeah, I'm still looking to get the pinout of the connectors on the amp side. If you also have it on the radio/headunit side as well, that would be even better! 14 speaker system.
 

Messages
376
Reactions
235
Points
37
Location
Houston, TX, USA
Vehicle
2022 Ford Explorer ST
#15
1685984172605.png
 

OP
B

Bosh

Member
Messages
46
Reactions
13
Points
2
Location
Madison, WI
Vehicle
2002 Ford Mustang
Thread Starter #16
Thanks @Stone17!

I think I might go with the PAC AmpPro instead of jumping in off the factory amp. This should still be very helpful so I know which wires are which.
 



Top