BeyondEOD's ST Build Thread

[BeyondEOD]

Removed the “Explorer” badge on the hood and ran the first attempt to correct the paint from likely countless car washes. It looks 90% better but I don’t have enough cut to make it 100%. Maybe Megan’s 205 would be enough.

Used Megan’s Ultimate Compound , Backfire One Step, and Klasse All in One as the final step.

 

[BrooseDaMoose]

Removed the “Explorer” badge on the hood and ran the first attempt to correct the paint from likely countless car washes. It looks 90% better but I don’t have enough cut to make it 100%. Maybe Megan’s 205 would be enough.

Used Megan’s Ultimate Compound , Backfire One Step, and Klasse All in One as the final step.

Lookin’ sharp.


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[BeyondEOD]

Installed the Steeda subframe supports and the pinion bushings. Ran into a hiccup with one of the TTY pinion bolts. It would not torque to. So I’m thinking either the bolt is over stretched or there might be thread damage. I ordered Whoosh bolts to swap them out. Also looking to chase the subframe bolts before I run the new bolt it. This will be tricky as there is not much room to move the carrier out of the way.

NVH is up with these two mods.

 

[powerboatr]

I did the MRT struts and though they are no-drill, you do have to cut a little of the plastic.


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I forget the brand..
But no cutting. You use an exsisting trim button hole for hood attach point
Got em off amazon

 

[BeyondEOD]

I forget the brand..
But no cutting. You use an exsisting trim button hole for hood attach point
Got em off amazon

Very nice. Looks like a 2 min install as well.

 

[powerboatr]

Very nice. Looks like a 2 min install as well.

maybe 15, i found if you remove the under hood blanket first...it makes it easy to get to the holes to attach the nut plate
after i struggled with the drivers side for a few minutes, i said screw it and removed the hood blanket, then put it back after i was done
Front Hood Lift Supports for Ford Explorer 2020 2021 2022 Base/XLT/Limited/Platinum/ST OEM Replacement Bonnet Hydraulic Gas Charged Hood Lift Shocks Bar Springs Props Support Assist Kits


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[BeyondEOD]

Changed the transmission filter and fluid tonight. What a difference in shift quality and I believe what I was thinking was wheel hop was the transmission now. Combo of torque limiter and potentially low fluid causing the hop feeling.

I initially refilled with right at 4.9 quarts. Drove it around until the temp was around 210-215. Checked fluid and was at 4.5. I added another .75 quart or so and that got me to 2.5.

 

[BeyondEOD]

If you need to see where the stock pan bolts go here is a good image that I used for reference. Note the stud type and regular hex bolts.

Not my car.

 

[MikeyP]

Changed the transmission filter and fluid tonight. What a difference in shift quality and I believe what I was thinking was wheel hop was the transmission now. Combo of torque limiter and potentially low fluid causing the hop feeling.

Quite possibly was that. I have the same Cobb Stage 1 as you and I have no hop at all with Steeda Subframe Bushing Inserts, JXB Diff Bushing Inserts, Steeda Toe Links, and Steeda Vertical Link Inserts. Also 285/50-20 Nitto NT420V tires, but these aren't too wide or sticky.

 

[BeyondEOD]

Ok I got the pinion bolts swapped out with the Whoosh 12.9 bolts. I chased both threads in the subframe multiple times and used ARP thread lube on the new bolts. Torqued them to 150# and leaving the Steeda Bushings in place. I still have some NVH indicative of pinion or carrier bearing noise. It is more noticeable around 30-40 mph. I also feel much more of the shifts both low speed and during acceleration, this is to be expected with harder bushings I know.

I don’t really feel like installing the oe pinion bushings just to see if it is less noise. Either way there is an issue.

I’m still attributing the NVH all to bearing noise. I guess a new diff carrier is in the future.

Only other thing I can think of is when I installed the Steeda subframe bushings the subframe is slightly out of alignment causing the carrier not to be ideally centered. I did loosen both sides so I could get more space between the body and frame to install the top inserts. I also replaced these bolts with new ones and torqued to 129.

I even loosened the AWR subframe bolts with the weight on vehicle and retightened to see if it was holding the carrier up on it’s own.

 

[BeyondEOD]

Removing the AWR and JXB this weekend and dropping it off at the dealer for a look at the rear end. I’ll update when they have decided what they will do. I also returned to stock tune.

 

[BeyondEOD]

Just as expected the dealer said they cannot replicate the symptoms. They did say we have never seen bolts like you have before….I told them that was because I wanted to hopefully fix the bent one I removed for good. All in they recommend installing Ford pinion bushings and new ford bolts. I told them I will think about it.

It is obviously much quieter and probably within spec for NVH with only the Steeda subframe bushing inserts and pinion bushings. So it was a long shot…..


[mention]UNBROKEN [/mention] I know you have exhaust so this might be a moot point, but how do you like the ID Speed/CPE brace? I’m wondering if that unit vs the AWR would be quieter in your opinion? Also do you run the JXB Insert?

 

[Cdubya]

I only got deceleration noise when I installed JXB inserts on my 2-bolt. So you are still getting noise (albeit less) after you removed the AWR brace and JXB insert? That's kind of alarming.

 

[BeyondEOD]

It’s very mild now with just the Steeda pinion bushings. I still suspect that the pinion or carrier bearings are the culprit. Seems there are plenty of folks with braces and no additional NVH.