Focal, Mosconi, Illusion and Helix build

[UNBROKEN]

Stick fab done and ready for filler tomorrow.

 

[UNBROKEN]

Rear pods are done. I’ll get them installed tomorrow.

 

[UNBROKEN]

Baked with a space heater for a few hours to cure the paint and I decided to slap them in to get a look. I’ll pull them out tomorrow to run the wires and put in the rest of the screws then.
To be honest…I don’t love the shape. It’s either this or fire them down into the seat backs though….and I can’t see them from the front seat anyway so hopefully they’ll just be out of sight / out of mind.

 

[GearHead_1]

Not bad at all, you won't be stepping on them.

 

[Lightning Struck]

Won't need much for time delay.

 

[UNBROKEN]

Won't need much for time delay.

20ms on the rears.

 

[Lightning Struck]

How's that sound? I would think that would be closer to 26ms compared to most sedans running their differential rear fill in the rear doors(at 20ms). That's figuring that your rear pods are roughly 8 ft from MLP in comparison to about 2-3ft in a rear door.

 

[UNBROKEN]

How's that sound? I would think that would be closer to 26ms compared to most sedans running their differential rear fill in the rear doors(at 20ms). That's figuring that your rear pods are roughly 8 ft from MLP in comparison to about 2-3ft in a rear door.

There’s a long way to go with dialing it in and I haven’t had a lot of free time to play with it. I was reading some stuff last night that showed great results down around 12-13ms so now I have even more things to consider. Honestly…I think I’m gonna run up to MTI and plug the JL Max into it and dial it in with that. It’s so much easier when you can see all that info.

 

[bavarianblessed]

View attachment 7735

I noticed you didn't run a ground to the rear distribution but have a ground running through the firewall. Is that just for additional chassis grounding to match the positive lead or did you run it to the back after the fact?

 

[UNBROKEN]

It runs all the way to the back.
The blocks are fed from the battery in the front and also wired for the power supply from the rear.

 

[bavarianblessed]

It runs all the way to the back.
The blocks are fed from the battery in the front and also wired for the power supply from the rear. View attachment 19181

Nice, I always do the same. So many people try to argue with that logic as if a modern unibody can provide the same low-impedance and current capable connection.

 

[UNBROKEN]

Nice, I always do the same. So many people try to argue with that logic as if a modern unibody can provide the same low-impedance and current capable connection.

There’s more glue than welds in this car I think. I couldn’t picture a scenario where a straight body ground would suffice.

 

[spike5150]

I somehow got all three runs of 12ga wire through and into the doors.

I moved on to the midranges and mounted them in the flange of the OEM speaker…after some serious modifications. That flange WAS the OEM speaker. They’re mounted to the inner door panel.

Would you mind sharing how you got the wires into the doors? Did you just fish them through the stock conduits? Just a regular fish tape?

For the midranges did you have to hack into the black plastic in the door frame for depth clearance?

Thanks!

 

[UNBROKEN]

Yea I just fished one wire at a time through. It definitely sucked…probably the worst part of the whole build.
I think I did clearance being the mids a little bit…I still had room to get a deflex pad behind them though.
Be aware that using all the factory door locations you will be able to get it tonally great but if you’re after imaging and staging it just won’t pull it off very well. The oem mid and tweeter locations fight you pretty hard.

 

[spike5150]

Thanks - I was afraid of that. I’m just looking for louder, cleaner and tighter sound. Not looking for competition grade.

Thanks for taking the time to document your install. It’s been extremely helpful!