Thanks again for this, really helpful. I tackled this today using the same Dorman replacement, you can find them on ebay for around $50 -- PN# 994-073. Took me about 2 hours give or take. The tough part is getting the right angle on the back 2 connectors for sure, was definitely resting my body on the front strut bar as you need to get way up in there. Now that I know how exactly to get the connectors off (the green 'lock' one is a PITA), i could probably do it quicker.
- The key thing is that there is a 'perch' that the rear solenoid/valve rests on that prevents it from moving around. If you pull up at the rear of the purge assembly, you can detach it, so that the assembly can rotate freely, making it easier to get at and undo the 2 rear connections.
- If you want to attempt it without disconnecting the lines running across the top, after getting the 4 bolts out to loosen those metal brackets holding the lines, you need one hand on top to push the top green tab up and one hand going around bottom to push the bottom tab at the same time, while pushing down hard to back out the green 'lock washer' thing. You can practice on the front green 'lock washer' to get a feel for how it unlocks.
-If you have larger hands or are having trouble with the rear connections, you will probably need to disconnect the top coolant lines that are in the way (make sure to have a cup or something handy to catch the coolant that drains out). These connections can be undone with a flathead screwdriver to pry open the locking tabs. It will probably be much easier to undo the rear connections once those lines are out of the way.
Then I cleared the check engine codes with my tuner and it was gone. If you aren't mechanically inclined you could probably take it to a local guy for cheaper if you supply the part.
- The key thing is that there is a 'perch' that the rear solenoid/valve rests on that prevents it from moving around. If you pull up at the rear of the purge assembly, you can detach it, so that the assembly can rotate freely, making it easier to get at and undo the 2 rear connections.
- If you want to attempt it without disconnecting the lines running across the top, after getting the 4 bolts out to loosen those metal brackets holding the lines, you need one hand on top to push the top green tab up and one hand going around bottom to push the bottom tab at the same time, while pushing down hard to back out the green 'lock washer' thing. You can practice on the front green 'lock washer' to get a feel for how it unlocks.
-If you have larger hands or are having trouble with the rear connections, you will probably need to disconnect the top coolant lines that are in the way (make sure to have a cup or something handy to catch the coolant that drains out). These connections can be undone with a flathead screwdriver to pry open the locking tabs. It will probably be much easier to undo the rear connections once those lines are out of the way.
Then I cleared the check engine codes with my tuner and it was gone. If you aren't mechanically inclined you could probably take it to a local guy for cheaper if you supply the part.
