I've got a Check Engine Light

[PGas32]

Press on the side of the plug on the driver's side while pulling the plug toward the back of the car. That should release it

 

[STDawg]

OK so I completed this yesterday. First off, thanks for what was posted previously - it at least got me started. Disconnected the front connections (as others suggested I used the front green clip for practice bc there is one on the back of the purge valve that you will also need to disconnect). Undid the four bolts - these are for two brackets, not just one. Struggled thru getting the back part disconnected. Then I figured out that the back connection was also linked to this part circled in red:

If you unclip this from its holder and unclip it from the purge valve (clip circled in red), it allows you to more easily access the back connections. I fed it under some of the tubing and pulled it up to where I had unlimited access to unclip the wire harness and the green clip. Two hours, bloody and nasty hands, and multiple beers to get it out, 10 minutes to put it back together.

 

[GrocreyGetter]

So, I just had mine replaced at the ford dealership, and it threw the same code again. It was fine on the way home, the next day after a good throttle up to pass on the interstate and boom the light is back on.

 

[DaveG ST]

OK so I completed this yesterday. First off, thanks for what was posted previously - it at least got me started. Disconnected the front connections (as others suggested I used the front green clip for practice bc there is one on the back of the purge valve that you will also need to disconnect). Undid the four bolts - these are for two brackets, not just one. Struggled thru getting the back part disconnected. Then I figured out that the back connection was also linked to this part circled in red:
View attachment 25937
If you unclip this from its holder and unclip it from the purge valve (clip circled in red), it allows you to more easily access the back connections. I fed it under some of the tubing and pulled it up to where I had unlimited access to unclip the wire harness and the green clip. Two hours, bloody and nasty hands, and multiple beers to get it out, 10 minutes to put it back together.

With the experience of having removed it once, how much time do you think it would take you to replace it a second time? Would there be any advantage in taking the strut tower brace off or is it helpful to leave on so that you can lean on it?

 

[Geo Tracker]

Update for you guys on the Purge Valve. Yesterday my Neighbor and I checked the valve using his Ford computer, he is a tech at the dealership, and found the valve is bad… stuck open. We had to remove it to be able to get the correct part number as the part Ford lists is only a hose and not the valve assembly. I have attached two pictures, one is the valve I ordered which has the correct part number and the second photo is where the valve is located on the engine. It is a pain in the rear to access but not impossible. The part number is the important thing, if you need this valve and the dealership or repair shop is going to order it give them the number in the picture, and Yes, it is a Ford part number. The part location is where my light is illuminating FYI. Hope this helps View attachment 11782 View attachment 11783

Thanks for posting about the DTC Code P0496 EVAP Purge Valve and the GL3Z-9B325-B Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid replacement part. Not sure I can get my big hands to the back of the Purge Valve and be stuck with an unfinished job. I assume that it is not covered under ESP or Emmissions Warranty, based on what I have seen on-line. It appears to be only covered under bumber to bumber. Does anyone know how much Ford charged to replace the valve?

 

[DaveG ST]

Thanks for posting about the DTC Code P0496 EVAP Purge Valve and the GL3Z-9B325-B Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid replacement part. Not sure I can get my big hands to the back of the Purge Valve and be stuck with an unfinished job. I assume that it is not covered under ESP or Emmissions Warranty, based on what I have seen on-line. It appears to be only covered under bumber to bumber. Does anyone know how much Ford charged to replace the valve?

The dealer wanted $600, so I bought the part at Napa for about $70 and replaced it myself. You can feel the electrical connector in the back, just kind of pinch it and push back. As someone else has mentioned, disconnect the valve at the easier location that will be towards your right and not as far back. You can then remove that back green connector much easier once it is in your hands.