K&N Oil Filter

[Cruising68]

Drop in canister style are all similar imo. Spin on filters really boil down to design and quality. From the bottom barrel Fram with the glued cardboard end cap to a high end Wix it’s really about insurance. If a spin on fails or gets stuck in bypass mode you are just recycling dirty oil through your engine. When buying spin on filters, I’d rather pay a few bucks extra for a high quality oil filter as cheap insurance.

Usually run Mahle or Wix in my ST.

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[cheetoduster]

No

We’re actually talking about oiled air intake filters, but on your donate subject I always change the oil the first 1k miles and then every 5k miles or 6 months after that.

No. First three posts were about oil filters, not oiled air filters.

 

[2020FordRaptor]

No
No. First three posts were about oil filters, not oiled air filters.

Yeah I just admitted a couple posts earlier that I didn't read it right.

And the moment hits:
View attachment 24981
I’m an idiot. Too tired, and misread the first post.

 

[DaveG ST]

Drop in canister style are all similar imo. Spin on filters really boil down to design and quality. From the bottom barrel Fram with the glued cardboard end cap to a high end Wix it’s really about insurance. If a spin on fails or gets stuck in bypass mode you are just recycling dirty oil through your engine. When buying spin on filters, I’d rather pay a few bucks extra for a high quality oil filter as cheap insurance.

Usually run Mahle or Wix in my ST.

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I even use Walmart brand from time to time, which may also be true bottom barrel, but they have been tested to meet OEM quality. I only use Mobil 1 ESP oil in my vehicles.

 

[2020FordRaptor]

I even use Walmart brand from time to time, which may also be true bottom barrel, but they have been tested to meet OEM quality. I only use Mobil 1 ESP oil in my vehicles.

I don’t think that I could ever have the piece of mind with a Wallymart oil filter. Motorcrafts aren’t that much more expensive. Probably just in my head.

 

[23 Explorer ST]

I use either OEM or Wix filters. Never had any issues.


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[Flyman]

And the moment hits:
View attachment 24981
I’m an idiot. Too tired, and misread the first post.

We’re actually talking about oiled air intake filters, but on your donate subject I always change the oil the first 1k miles and then every 5k miles or 6 months after that.

Copy you, I appreciate the oil change information.
And for the laughs my friend.

 

[BrooseDaMoose]

I think I’m going to go with the Fram Ultra Synthetic. Rock Auto has them for $8.41. Now I just need to get a decent extractor. Any suggestions?

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[Cruising68]

I think I’m going to go with the Fram Ultra Synthetic. Rock Auto has them for $8.41. Now I just need to get a decent extractor. Any suggestions?

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I use this one.

https://a.co/d/ix4xjWd


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[bluesnake01]

I think I’m going to go with the Fram Ultra Synthetic. Rock Auto has them for $8.41. Now I just need to get a decent extractor. Any suggestions?

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If you ask me, i would never cheap on items that are inexpensive to begin with. Saving $10 on an item that can be critical if it fails isnt it worth it. But those are my 2 cents

Just get the UPR plug, soo much easier and faster for oil changes

 

[23 Explorer ST]

Fram filters are the bottom of the barrel.
Just to save a few bucks is not worth it when it comes to protecting your engine in my opinion.


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[BrooseDaMoose]

If you ask me, i would never cheap on items that are inexpensive to begin with. Saving $10 on an item that can be critical if it fails isnt it worth it. But those are my 2 cents

Just get the UPR plug, soo much easier and faster for oil changes

I didn't choose it just because it was inexpensive. I've always used either Fram or Mobil1 filters in the past. I've only used Fram filters on my Ranger and it's got 275K miles on it! Just because something cost more doesn't mean it's a better product either.

 

[BrooseDaMoose]

Fram filters are the bottom of the barrel.
Just to save a few bucks is not worth it when it comes to protecting your engine in my opinion.


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I hardly think the bottom of the barrel ends with Fram! You don’t stay in business for almost 100 years making crap. Unless you’re a manure dealer of course.


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[DaveG ST]

I use this one.

https://a.co/d/ix4xjWd


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I have this one. I have a platform that is about a foot in height that I set it on. After extraction I add 6 quarts to bring it to full. You may want to add 5 quarts and check the level, just in case.

EWK 6.5L Manual Oil Extractor Change Pump for Automotive Fluids Vacuum Evacuation Manual Oil Extractor Pump https://a.co/d/cU5DXPd

 

[2020FordRaptor]

I hardly think the bottom of the barrel ends with Fram! You don’t stay in business for almost 100 years making crap. Unless you’re a manure dealer of course.


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Well Fiats has somehow stayed alive for a long time, just because you’ve been around a long time doesn’t mean your good.

 

[Cruising68]

I hardly think the bottom of the barrel ends with Fram! You don’t stay in business for almost 100 years making crap. Unless you’re a manure dealer of course.


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Plenty of bad oil filters out there. Anything Fram that is middle of their lineup and up are good to very good imo. I know there was a big problem with their glued cardboard encaps on their low end models. They would blow and go full bypass for zero filtering. Not worth risking that.

Having said that I would run their high end synthetic filters if I needed to no problem. Believe it or not Walmart filters and oil are reasonably high quality. Less quality issues on a cartridge but I still stick to a more expensive filter. Cheap insurance.


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[BrooseDaMoose]

To each their own. Some like Ford and some like Chevy. Like I said, I’ve always had good luck with running them on my Ranger 4.0L SOHC and she still runs fine at 275K “hard” miles! I’d be willing to bet the Fram is just as good as the K&N at half the price because you’re not paying for the fancy name. If I get it and it looks cheaply made, then I don’t use it. I spent eight bucks to educate myself and I’ll pass on the info. That simple.


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[Cruising68]

To each their own. Some like Ford and some like Chevy. Like I said, I’ve always had good luck with running them on my Ranger 4.0L SOHC and she still runs fine at 275K “hard” miles! I’d be willing to bet the Fram is just as good as the K&N at half the price because you’re not paying for the fancy name. If I get it and it looks cheaply made, then I don’t use it. I spent eight bucks to educate myself and I’ll pass on the info. That simple.


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You should always use what YOU want to use


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[bluesnake01]

I hardly think the bottom of the barrel ends with Fram! You don’t stay in business for almost 100 years making crap. Unless you’re a manure dealer of course.


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I mean Kia and Hyundai are still in business lol They werent exactly great, hell, not even good cars in the 90's. You also have cheap electronic brands like Lenovo still around.

Going back to topic, if it works for you, then good enough. Was just stating my opinion, nothing more.

 

[Caster]

I use K&N oil filters on my ATV's. They are not bad and as others have mentioned, having a nut welded to the end of them for easy removal is awesome. The paper oil filter for an ST wouldn't obviously have a metal housing. I would never consider changing my oil and not changing the oil filter along with it. To each is their own but that is not something I would ever do. I do however fall into the 3K mile oil changes like you.