New wheels … new issues

[TMac]

I'm no expert on this but I can't help but think that the change of tire diameter is causing the Advancetrac light. Advanetrac is expecting a certain RPM at a certain speed. Now it is different. After all it did show up after that change was made. That is why I think resetting it may clear it up. But I could be wrong. Easy enough to try.

You're right, you're no expert on this, sorry. The RPM has nothing to do with it. RPM is the same. Only difference is the actual distance traveled per revolution which is determined by the circumference of the tires. I'm not debating that you can clear the code- I'm debating the reason for the code.

Also remember that the "speed" on the speedo is calculated by the output shaft RPM and the expected tire circumfurence. Unless it's being checked by GPS, it has no idea exactly how fast you're going. In any case, that wouldn't involve 4WD errors. Those would most likely be driven by RPM differences between the front and rear wheels; not some speed discrepancy. If that were the case, why haven't we seen hundreds of people who have changed tire/wheel combos posting with this problem? Look at @zdubyadubya post earlier in the thread.

 

[singingwhodat]

I'm no expert on this but I can't help but think that the change of tire diameter is causing the Advancetrac light. Advanetrac is expecting a certain RPM at a certain speed. Now it is different. After all it did show up after that change was made. That is why I think resetting it may clear it up. But I could be wrong. Easy enough to try.

I disconnected the negative terminal as recommended but it is still there unfortunately


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[singingwhodat]

You're right, you're no expert on this, sorry. The RPM has nothing to do with it. RPM is the same. Only difference is the actual distance traveled per revolution which is determined by the circumference of the tires. I'm not debating that you can clear the code- I'm debating the reason for the code.

Also remember that the "speed" on the speedo is calculated by the output shaft RPM and the expected tire circumfurence. Unless it's being checked by GPS, it has no idea exactly how fast you're going. In any case, that wouldn't involve 4WD errors. Those would most likely be driven by RPM differences between the front and rear wheels; not some speed discrepancy. If that were the case, why haven't we seen hundreds of people who have changed tire/wheel combos posting with this problem? Look at @zdubyadubya post earlier in the thread.

Maybe something was damaged when installing the new rims and tires. I’m lost on what to do. I may just reinstall the factory setup and bring it in


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[TMac]

That's what I'm trying to say. Here is what I would do.

Do you actually have the exact same wheels/tires on all corners? You didn't try to run some type of "staggered setup"? Not insulting you, just want to know, cuz that won't work.

Is tire pressure the same on all wheels? Do you have a gauge to check? First thing I would check.

Second, check the wheel sensor connectors in all the hubs visually. Just to see if one was accidentally disconnected or damaged during install. See link in post #13.

Third, I'd check the front halfshaft connector on the front diff- look at the link I posted in the link in #13 again.

Finally, if you're still under warranty, based on your service guy's opinion, you should probably do what you posted in #23. Install the old setup and see if it fixes anything. Can't imagine it will, but at least your Ford dealer will have to deal with it without making up bullshit.

 

[singingwhodat]

That's what I'm trying to say. Here is what I would do.

Do you actually have the exact same wheels/tires on all corners? You didn't try to run some type of "staggered setup"? Not insulting you, just want to know, cuz that won't work.

Is tire pressure the same on all wheels? Do you have a gauge to check? First thing I would check.

Second, check the wheel sensor connectors in all the hubs visually. Just to see if one was accidentally disconnected or damaged during install. See link in post #13.

Third, I'd check the front halfshaft connector on the front diff- look at the link I posted in the link in #13 again.

Finally, if you're still under warranty, based on your service guy's opinion, you should probably do what you posted in #23. Install the old setup and see if it fixes anything. Can't imagine it will, but at least your Ford dealer will have to deal with it without making up bullshit.

Definitely not staggered and all of the wheel pressures are identical. The 4wd codes are clear so not sure what to use on post 13. The advancetrac is what is now not clearing. Hill assist off, driver select modes not selectable, cruise control will not turn on, traction control is off, etc. I’m looking to see what Module contains all of the items listed.

I appreciate all of the feedback


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[singingwhodat]

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[TMac]

Definitely not staggered and all of the wheel pressures are identical. The 4wd codes are clear so not sure what to use on post 13. The advancetrac is what is now not clearing. Hill assist off, driver select modes not selectable, cruise control will not turn on, traction control is off, etc. I’m looking to see what Module contains all of the items listed.


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Thanks for that description,From the number of codes it's throwing, a bad wheel speed sensor is probable. A number of members have had similar issues with wheel speed sensors, best of luck, but according to what you've said, it has nothing to do with your wheel/tire combos. That's why I mention "coincidences" back in post #14.

 

[zdubyadubya]

to reiterate, there are alot of guys running 305/40r22s and i know at least a half dozen who are also running toyo proxes st IIIs (ridiculously good tire for the price btw). several others are running 305/35r22s (which are smaller in diameter than stock), also without issue. not a single one of us has ever had any of the faults you are mentioning. if all 4 wheels are identical in diameter there is no way for the car to know that your not traveling the speed you are supposed to be. however, if one wheel is "off" (i.e., no signal or a bad signal), or the front don't match the back, THEN the car knows.

@TMac is most likely onto something. i bet a wheel speed sensor got knocked loose during the install.

 

[singingwhodat]

to reiterate, there are alot of guys running 305/40r22s and i know at least a half dozen who are also running toyo proxes st IIIs (ridiculously good tire for the price btw). several others are running 305/35r22s (which are smaller in diameter than stock), also without issue. not a single one of us has ever had any of the faults you are mentioning. if all 4 wheels are identical in diameter there is no way for the car to know that your not traveling the speed you are supposed to be. however, if one wheel is "off" (i.e., no signal or a bad signal), or the front don't match the back, THEN the car knows.

@TMac is most likely onto something. i bet a wheel speed sensor got knocked loose during the install.

I will search online for the location of the wheel sensors and check them n the morning. I hope that’s all it is


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[F=MA]

I ran 305/35/22 then switched to 295/40/22 with zero issues. 2020 C build.

 

[Cdubya]

Yeah, sounds like front axle speed sensor. It is located on the front differential towards the passenger side. That said, you really should be doing a Forscan diagnostic scan instead of playing these guessing games. It would for sure tell you it's the front axle speed sensor if that's the problem.

 

[UNBROKEN]

Oem 21’s are 30.7” OD and the very popular 30/40/22 your running is 31.6. So basically an inch bigger and literally nobody has had an issue…because there’s no way for it to be an issue.

 

[singingwhodat]

Can one of you please tell me what the stock tire (mm) size should be in Forscan?


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[TMac]

780 mm (diameter)

 

[singingwhodat]

I thought it read the circumference number and that’s why I asked.

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[singingwhodat]

780 mm (diameter)

Did you pull this number from Forscan?


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[singingwhodat]

Did you pull this number from Forscan? I’m asking because it shows circumference in Forscan.


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[TMac]

Not forscan. That's just a conversion of 30.7 stock diameter to mm (hnt: divide by .03937). If you need circumference, multiply 780 by pi or 2450.

 

[UNBROKEN]

Not forscan. That's just a conversion of 30.7 stock diameter to mm (hnt: divide by .03937). If you need circumference, multiply 780 by pi or 2450.

Or multiply OD in inches x 25.4

 

[singingwhodat]

Not forscan. That's just a conversion of 30.7 stock diameter to mm (hnt: divide by .03937). If you need circumference, multiply 780 by pi or 2450.

I changed it in Forscan using the new wheel circumference but didn’t document what the stock entry was.


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