Oil and Filter Cartridge Change

[Jshaffer3819]

I think it said Nm in the video.

“Good and snug” would suffice I’m sure.

Yea he said N/M but an earlier post said Ft/lbs.


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[SleeperST]

Is the torque 24 ft/lbs or 24 N/Ms?


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If you look on the oil filter cap it says 24 N/Ms + or - 2 N/Ms

 

[SleeperST]

Also, I’ve been reading about the pros and cons of oil extraction. There are a lot of pros but one con that I’m concerned about is the small amount of o remaining in the pan. I guess if you change your oil often, that’s not a big deal.

A couple questions:

1. Can we use the extraction process on our explorers?
2. Since the filter is on top, can we go through that point or do we have to go through the dipstick?
3. Lastly, what type of extractors does everyone recommend? 24V, manual, or pneumatic!

Thanks for the info.


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Yes, I only recommend this after the first oil change to make sure you get all the bad stuff out.

dip stick.

FIRSTINFO 2nd Generation Pneumatic/Manual 6.5 Liter Oil/Fluid Changer Vacuum Extractor Pump w/ 6.5ft Brake Fluid Hose with Check Valve + Hoses Storage + Dust Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YF804QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JIeXEbMDDJT46

27mm 6-Point Socket, Low Profile Oil Filter Wrench，3/8" Drive Oil Filter Removal Tool For Mercedes-Benz A-Class,Ford,Renault,Nissan,Dodge,Hyundai,Kia,Mini,Fiat, All 27mm Oil Filter Caps(Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M8T1PPB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SPeXEbK5019PW


takes 5 minutes or less to change oil. Afterwards I take the oil that in the extractor to the nears oil recycle place aka autozone.

 

[Jshaffer3819]

Yes, I only recommend this after the first oil change to make sure you get all the bad stuff out.

dip stick.

FIRSTINFO 2nd Generation Pneumatic/Manual 6.5 Liter Oil/Fluid Changer Vacuum Extractor Pump w/ 6.5ft Brake Fluid Hose with Check Valve + Hoses Storage + Dust Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YF804QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JIeXEbMDDJT46

27mm 6-Point Socket, Low Profile Oil Filter Wrench，3/8" Drive Oil Filter Removal Tool For Mercedes-Benz A-Class,Ford,Renault,Nissan,Dodge,Hyundai,Kia,Mini,Fiat, All 27mm Oil Filter Caps(Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M8T1PPB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SPeXEbK5019PW


takes 5 minutes or less to change oil. Afterwards I take the oil that in the extractor to the nears oil recycle place aka autozone.

Cool, thanks. I ordered an Ewk extractor which looks like pretty much the same. Did my first oil change already so I will start the extraction method on the next one.


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[FatGuyBuilds_YT]

I have done independent testing on castrol oil and the stuff was failing at around 3500 miles. I have tested about 350$ worth of samples. i will only run amsoil or mobil1 based on testing.
along with WIX filters

5.2 qts 5w-30 Full Syn. O rings came with K&N filter cartridge.
View attachment 307

 

[Jshaffer3819]

Any testing on Royal Purple Full synthetic? They got great reviews.


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[FatGuyBuilds_YT]

no I have not tested royal purple since the cost was equal to amsoil and amsoil has always passed every test with flying colors.

Any testing on Royal Purple Full synthetic? They got great reviews.


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[OpalST2020]

Just did my first oil change at 1100 miles, to get the new engine debris and machining dust, etc. out. I used Castrol Edge Advanced. I used a MC filter. Heads up on the MC filters, looks like MC has revised the filter, the PN is now FL-2062-a. The new filter is made in brazil and no longer has the rubber end caps. Also, the small o-ring is black, and the large cap o-rings are blue. I even verified it by calling my local dealer. The filter and o-rings fit just fine, used a fine film of new oil on the new o-rings, made sure the plastic cap threads were free of debris and torqued the cap to 25 NM. I drained the oil by removing the rear splash shield and removed the drain plug. I don't really like the drain plug design, and will keep my eye on it for leaks. I have a feeling that the oil pans will be redesigned and replaced in the future. Cast a metal insert in the composite, and use a traditional plug I think would have been better, but then there's the risk of cracking the pan due to excessive torque. Oil change itself was easy, I have owned 3 powerstrokes prior to the ST, the 6.0 PSD is a cartridge oil filter along with the fuel filters. I may upgrade to a K&N filter, but MC filters have never given me a problem on any of my past PSD's. I will however, keep a close eye on the drain plug.

 

[FatGuyBuilds_YT]

Just did my first oil change at 1100 miles, to get the new engine debris and machining dust, etc. out. I used Castrol Edge Advanced. I used a MC filter. Heads up on the MC filters, looks like MC has revised the filter, the PN is now FL-2062-a. The new filter is made in brazil and no longer has the rubber end caps. Also, the small o-ring is black, and the large cap o-rings are blue. I even verified it by calling my local dealer. The filter and o-rings fit just fine, used a fine film of new oil on the new o-rings, made sure the plastic cap threads were free of debris and torqued the cap to 25 NM. I drained the oil by removing the rear splash shield and removed the drain plug. I don't really like the drain plug design, and will keep my eye on it for leaks. I have a feeling that the oil pans will be redesigned and replaced in the future. Cast a metal insert in the composite, and use a traditional plug I think would have been better, but then there's the risk of cracking the pan due to excessive torque. Oil change itself was easy, I have owned 3 powerstrokes prior to the ST, the 6.0 PSD is a cartridge oil filter along with the fuel filters. I may upgrade to a K&N filter, but MC filters have never given me a problem on any of my past PSD's. I will however, keep a close eye on the drain plug.

based on my testing i would not use any other filter than WIX. but glad to see you doing your own maintenance.

 

[OpalST2020]

I always do my own Maintenance, and repairs on my vehicles. I went to a vocational school for automotive. I have air tools, two tool boxes, compressors, and my own lift. I work on my friends vehicles too, to help them out.

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[bcd]

Just did my first oil change at 1100 miles, to get the new engine debris and machining dust, etc. out. I used Castrol Edge Advanced. I used a MC filter. Heads up on the MC filters, looks like MC has revised the filter, the PN is now FL-2062-a. The new filter is made in brazil and no longer has the rubber end caps. Also, the small o-ring is black, and the large cap o-rings are blue. I even verified it by calling my local dealer. The filter and o-rings fit just fine, used a fine film of new oil on the new o-rings, made sure the plastic cap threads were free of debris and torqued the cap to 25 NM. I drained the oil by removing the rear splash shield and removed the drain plug. I don't really like the drain plug design, and will keep my eye on it for leaks. I have a feeling that the oil pans will be redesigned and replaced in the future. Cast a metal insert in the composite, and use a traditional plug I think would have been better, but then there's the risk of cracking the pan due to excessive torque. Oil change itself was easy, I have owned 3 powerstrokes prior to the ST, the 6.0 PSD is a cartridge oil filter along with the fuel filters. I may upgrade to a K&N filter, but MC filters have never given me a problem on any of my past PSD's. I will however, keep a close eye on the drain plug.

I changed my oil last night, and I think I know why they did a design change on the MC filter. The cap on the end was stuck on the nipple inside the engine. I pulled my filter out, and the cap didn't come with it. Also, it's plastic, not rubber. I had to use 2 long needle nose pliers and get on both sides of it and pry it out. A small piece broke off it. I then had to fish the small broken plastic pieces out.

Also, for those using extractors through the dipstick. I've heard horror stories of the plastic extractor tube breaking off inside the dipstick tube/engine. Be careful when using.

 

[Cmaximst]

Watch YouTube first. Pretty straightforward. Take your time, remember which fasteners went where for the belly pan (there are3 different ones!) Go easy on the plastic drain plug. Actually it is easier to change the filter because it is on the top of the engine.

 

[powerby50]

To the guys that did their own oil change , how dirty was your oil? I had the dealership doing the first 2 on mine since i had the points and didn't plan on keeping it. I decided to buy it and and used an extractor and got a little less than 5 quarts and it looked real dark. They marked up the bar by the oil filter so I assume they changed the filter at least once.

 

[Cdubya]

Its dark for sure. Mine consumes a qt every 10k miles so i add some every 5k. Unlike many here, i do oil changes according to the car.

 

[boiler662]

I was down a quart after 6k miles, first time that's happened in 33k miles. Was going to try an extractor next instead of draining the pan to see how much I get out.

 

[harvey9095-22 ST]

• PER THE FORD WORKSHOP MANUAL.
• Oil Filter:FL-2062
• Oil Capacity:6.0qt (5.68L)
• Oil Type:XO-5W30-QSP
• Air Filter Element:FA-1884
• Battery:BAGM-48H6-760
• Spark Plugs:SP-578
• Transmission Filter:N/A
• Transmission Fluid Spec:XT-12-QULV
• Transmission Capacity:12.9qt (12.2L)
  13.0qt (12.3L): Police Vehicle
• Cabin Air Filter:FP-100
• Wiper Blades:RH: WW-2113
  LH: WW-2616
  Rear Window: WW-1110
• Lug Nut Torque:Bolt size: M14 x 1.5
  lb-ft (Nm): 150 (204)
• Coolant Grade:VC-13DL-G

 

[Doug]

Thanks for posting those specs, Harvey. Very helpful. I dug into the oil spec further and found some documentation on API ‘SN Plus’ being very important for these turbo engines. Here’s a video on how to change the oil. Hope this helps everyone!