Steeda vs H&R

[mwinn]

Let's get this snack down going. Looking to add a Steeda rear sway bar with springs. What's the opinion on H&R vs. Steeda springs? I know H&R has a little more drop, but what about the performance and ride?

 

[zdubyadubya]

I think it just comes down to drop preference. I have the Steeda springs and rear sway bar and am very happy with both. The quality of the Steeda springs really is top notch, the powdercoating is very good quality, and even though listed drop is 1 1/8", after settling for a day, I think my final measurement is more than that. There was a rumour awhile back that Steeda springs werent progressive but rather linear. That is incorrect. The Steeda springs are progressive, just like the stock springs and the H&R springs. The ride does feel similar around town but when you push the truck into corners it definitley feels stiffer and more planted. I made the mistake of doing the sway bar and springs at the same time though so its hard for me to separate the variables.

 

[mwinn]

Thank you for the quick reply. I had heard that liner thing about Steeda too. Glad it is untrue. I don't know if it matters but in going with the Steeda rear bar I felt it would be prudent to go with the springs as well if all things being equal. Thanks again for the feed back

 

[Vash610]

I heard that rumor about Steeda being Linear and believed it. I mean, it looks linear. What makes it progressive then?

 

[UNBROKEN]

H&R here. Zero issues and I prefer the little more drop they give.

 

[Cdubya]

There must obviously be a difference in "progressive". Every H&R spring I've used actually made the ride worse at speed unless you got performance shocks like Koni Sport (yellow) or Bilstein B8 or equivalent. Going with Steeda.

 

[zdubyadubya]

I heard that rumor about Steeda being Linear and believed it. I mean, it looks linear. What makes it progressive then?

Progressive springs are theoretically beneficial in that they provide a soft ride with a ramping spring rate that prevents bottom-out. Something that can also be accomplished with compression damping in an adjustable shock. When using drop springs you have less total spring length for the same amount of travel therefore your baseline spring rate needs to be stiffer, which can result in a harsher tan preferred ride under normal driving conditions. It can be accomplished with either more windings per inch or increased heat treatment towards one end of the spring which stiffens the modulus of the steel. It’s two ways to kill a horse and I haven’t seen any data that proves one way is better. I’m not 100% which method each company uses but Steeda verified to me theirs are designed to be progressive. H&R also has a fantastic reputation in the motorsport community. With their increased drop, its feasible their ramp rate may be higher and as such unless you drive your truck aggressively all the time the ride may be harsher but everyone I know who has bought them for their Explorer loves them so... I really don’t think you can go wrong either way.

 

[STJIM]

There must obviously be a difference in "progressive". Every H&R spring I've used actually made the ride worse at speed unless you got performance shocks like Koni Sport (yellow) or Bilstein B8 or equivalent. Going with Steeda.

 

[STJIM]

Haven’t rode in a new explorer with Steeda spring to compare but the H&R’s didn’t diminish the ride quality around town at all and the ride and tracking on the highway is phenomenal compared to stock. Going to order the Steeda sway bar next week! Jim

 

[UNBROKEN]

There must obviously be a difference in "progressive". Every H&R spring I've used actually made the ride worse at speed unless you got performance shocks like Koni Sport (yellow) or Bilstein B8 or equivalent. Going with Steeda.

Rock solid and no surprises at 135 with H&R.

 

[Cdubya]

Rock solid and no surprises at 135 with H&R.

Thanks. Maybe the ST shocks/struts are good enough. They are supposedly different from what's on other trims.

 

[UNBROKEN]

Yes, different valving. I wanna say I read 8% stiffer but don’t quote me on that.

 

[Jshaffer3819]

Need help installing Steeda sway bar. The directions say “Using a T40 and 18mm box end wrench, remove the upper swaybar endlink nut.” Can someone explain this A little better? I have the T 40 and everything is ready to remove but not sure how to do it. Thanks in advance.


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[Jshaffer3819]

Need help installing Steeda sway bar. The directions say “Using a T40 and 18mm box end wrench, remove the upper swaybar endlink nut.” Can someone explain this A little better? I have the T 40 and everything is ready to remove but not sure how to do it. Thanks in advance.


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Disregard, I figured it out. Thanks.


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[schaggatron]

Disregard, I figured it out. Thanks.


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What was the solution?

 

[Jshaffer3819]

What was the solution?

You hold the shaft of the upper sway bar end with the T40 to keep it from spinning then use your wrench to loosen the 18 mm bolt. Came off pretty easy. I was having a hard time putting it back on and torquing it to 76 foot pounds. Basically what I did was put the 18mm bolt back on the same way I took it off. Hold the shaft with the T40 then tighten the 18mm bolt with the box wrench. Once the bolt is semi tight, I used a torque wrench to finish tightening it to 76 lbs. That last step confused me, Which isn’t hard to do. The Steeda directions say to use the T40 to torque it. I tried that and snapped the T40. Thankfully I had an extra one so the next time I just used the T40 to hold the shaft until it was tight enough where stop using the T40 and I could use the torque wrench with an 18 mm socket and the shaft didn’t spin. Picture #15 on the instructions is wrong. They are showing the lower sway bar end which we don’t remove. Should have showed the upper instead. Lessons learned.


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[Jshaffer3819]

You hold the shaft of the upper sway bar end with the T40 to keep it from spinning then use your wrench to loosen the 18 mm bolt. Came off pretty easy. I was having a hard time putting it back on and torquing it to 76 foot pounds. Basically what I did was put the 18mm bolt back on the same way I took it off. Hold the shaft with the T40 then tighten the 18mm bolt with the box wrench. Once the bolt is semi tight, I used a torque wrench to finish tightening it to 76 lbs. That last step confused me, Which isn’t hard to do. The Steeda directions say to use the T40 to torque it. I tried that and snapped the T40. Thankfully I had an extra one so the next time I just used the T40 to hold the shaft until it was tight enough where stop using the T40 and I could use the torque wrench with an 18 mm socket and the shaft didn’t spin. Picture #15 on the instructions is wrong. They are showing the lower sway bar end which we don’t remove. Should have showed the upper instead. Lessons learned.


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I also used the center hole and wow, what a difference. Handles so awesome. Can’t wait to get the Steeda springs next. I live near the Nurburgring in Germany and plan on taking my ST around the track a few times. Should be fun.


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[Jshaffer3819]

I drove to work today after installing the Steeda sway bar and I am hearing a clinking noise when I go over bumps. It sounds like the sway bar is hitting the coil springs or something. Vehicle handles great but something isn’t right. The sway bar end is really close to the springs. Anyone else have any issues with this or have any advice? Everything is tightened and torqued to specs and if I recall, really only one way to install these. Any help would be appreciated.


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[UNBROKEN]

My bar ends are really close too but I haven’t seen any contact.

 

[zdubyadubya]

I have steeda springs and sway bar, so I can't speak to the H&R setup, but while close, on my vehicle they do not touch. if you hear a clinking noise, that should be loud enough to leave marks on the spring powdercoating. if the springs are scratched, there is your culprit but i am leaning towards it being something else. I have driven my truck HARD and even got it to powerslide a bit a couple times to test out the setup and there is no contact between the bar and springs.