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Trans Temp Gauge
- Thread starter Suprawill1
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- Nevada
- Vehicle
- '20 Raptor, '22 Explorer ST, '14 GT500, '03 F150
People have used p3 digital vent gauges that they cut and used. It’s great because most can monitor a lot, not just transmission temperature.
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai...htT42fmHAxXMl4kEHSKSAhEQwg8oAHoECAgQDA&adurl=
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai...htT42fmHAxXMl4kEHSKSAhEQwg8oAHoECAgQDA&adurl=
- Messages
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- Location
- East Freetown, MA
- Vehicle
- 2020 Explorer ST, Silver Spruce Metalic
I was actually looking for this set up but can't find the thread that had a link to the OBD adapter to use with the app. I think it was this one,OBDLink MX+. I know it works with FORScan but do you know if it will work with the Car Scanner app?
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1
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- 82
- Location
- East Freetown, MA
- Vehicle
- 2020 Explorer ST, Silver Spruce Metalic
- Messages
- 1,210
- Reactions
- 582
- Points
- 162
- Location
- Nevada
- Vehicle
- '20 Raptor, '22 Explorer ST, '14 GT500, '03 F150
It pisses me off to no end
The ip for st was not configured to show boost, and actual engine Temps amd trans temp in numerical format in sport and tow mode
My 150 I enabled numbers under the gauges
No reason our ip is not configured..as the data is there and available
Plus having to give up cold ac air flow is not an option
It's freaking hot here in summer
The ip for st was not configured to show boost, and actual engine Temps amd trans temp in numerical format in sport and tow mode
My 150 I enabled numbers under the gauges
No reason our ip is not configured..as the data is there and available
Plus having to give up cold ac air flow is not an option
It's freaking hot here in summer
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- Messages
- 1,210
- Reactions
- 582
- Points
- 162
- Location
- Nevada
- Vehicle
- '20 Raptor, '22 Explorer ST, '14 GT500, '03 F150
I just ordered a Banks iDash for my 25' ST. I will report back on how well it works after a little time. I'm also ordering a few different Autometer pillar gauge pods to see which one will require the least modifying to mount to the Explored pillar and look correct and as factory as possible. I chose a few different gauge pods that look to have the closest profile mounting surface shape to match the pillar trim panel of the Explorer. I always put up a front window sun shade in the summer so I don't want a suction cup style mount being in the way and using a suction style mound on soft surfaced dashes will F' up the dash pad.
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- East Freetown, MA
- Vehicle
- 2020 Explorer ST, Silver Spruce Metalic
Change in mounting plans. Instead of going with an Autometer gauge pod and customizing one to fit the A-pillar for the Banks iDash, I'm going to go with an aluminum gauge mount from Cravenspeed. It looks nice and it can rotate if I want to reposition it a little. It also mounts with screws from the inside of whatever you mount it to - in my case, the screws will mound from the inside of the A-pillar trim panel, through the air ducting in the lower portion of the trim piece. I like this mounting method because there are side curtair air bags that will blow the hell out of the A-pillar trim panel to get it out of the way to deploy the airbags. With the heads of the screws being on the inside of the trim panel and screwing into the base of the gage mount, hopefully it will keep the gage and the mount attached to the trim panel and not allow both to be extracted and become flying debris from screws pulling/stripping out of the plastic in the event of a side curtain airbag deployment. Anything mounted to the A-pillar trim paned needs to be mounted down low because of the side curtain airbags location behind the trim panel.
Below are pictures of the drivers side A-pillar trim removed from my 25' ST. Pull the trim piece down and away from the A-pillar at about a 45 degree angle to detach the (2) mounting clip that are towards the top of the trim piece. The clips have tethers on them to keep the trim panel attached to the A-pillar if the side curtain airbags deploy. Rotate the tether's 90 degrees and pull them away from the trim piece about a 1/4", then let the tethers rotate back to their original position and they will pull right out of the trim panel - there is a little cross on the tether for your fingers to rotate the tether. Then you gently wiggle while pulling upward on the A-pillar trim panel and it will detach from the air ducting and a couple of other fastening tabs that are down low close to the dash.
Below are pictures of the drivers side A-pillar trim removed from my 25' ST. Pull the trim piece down and away from the A-pillar at about a 45 degree angle to detach the (2) mounting clip that are towards the top of the trim piece. The clips have tethers on them to keep the trim panel attached to the A-pillar if the side curtain airbags deploy. Rotate the tether's 90 degrees and pull them away from the trim piece about a 1/4", then let the tethers rotate back to their original position and they will pull right out of the trim panel - there is a little cross on the tether for your fingers to rotate the tether. Then you gently wiggle while pulling upward on the A-pillar trim panel and it will detach from the air ducting and a couple of other fastening tabs that are down low close to the dash.
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- Messages
- 689
- Reactions
- 340
- Points
- 82
- Location
- East Freetown, MA
- Vehicle
- 2020 Explorer ST, Silver Spruce Metalic
I was prety curiouse about that myself so that is why I removed the trim piece now instead of after I receive the iDash and the mount. I had to see what was behind the trim piece and where it all might be located so I could make my decisions. The A-pillar trim typically seperates from the top area of the A-pillar during airbag deployment (where the tethers are) and pivots at the bottom of the panel at the dash and stays put. Putting the gauge low on the A-pillar trim next to the dash is fairly low risk but not without rish at all..
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